How to warm up a subwoofer in a box. How to properly stretch a subwoofer in a car

Most technical devices cannot be turned up to full power immediately after purchase. First of all, this applies to devices that have moving or moving elements. Large or increased load can lead to defects or complete failure of the system. To prevent this from happening, the new subwoofer in the car needs to be properly “stretched”, “played out” or “run in”. The dynamic loudspeaker system, that is, the diffuser and its suspension, have a set of mechanical characteristics. These are flexibility, viscosity and elasticity. To stabilize these parameters, it is necessary for the acoustic low-frequency speaker to work for some time at low power with a gradual increase in power.

What is the best subwoofer to install in a hatchback?

For a hatchback-type body (not large two-volume cars), the sub (and its speakers and lens inverter) should be directed upward or towards the trunk. You should not point it at the back of the seat (this can lead to noticeable losses in sound).

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Introduction

Welcome to the pages of the Doctor BASS portal! Today I want to touch on the topic of warming up the woofers, is it really necessary, and how to warm up a subwoofer correctly.

There is a lot of debate online about the advisability of splitting. There are both supporters of this procedure and opponents who say that “warming up” the speakers is a useless procedure that does not change anything and that in general it’s all a myth.

The answer to this question is given by banal experience and this is what it tells me - a subwoofer definitely needs a warm-up and here's why:

The declared Thiel-Small parameters were taken from a crushed speaker, but the fact that after warming up these parameters change is a fact. Therefore, the sound for which the body is designed will come only after warming up.
After leaving the assembly line, the suspension and washers are not in proper condition. But after warming up, their properties, and accordingly the speaker parameters, stabilize and, if high-quality materials are used, remain unchanged for a very long time. Therefore, in the first hours the speaker does not sound exactly as intended by the manufacturer, but after a not very long “warm-up” everything returns to normal.
You can hear the difference between a crushed and new subwoofer!

Any listener, even an unprepared and unexperienced listener, will notice the difference between a crushed subwoofer and the same new one. Another thing is that with a gradual breakdown, it is not easy to make out changes in sound. This is similar to when it is difficult to notice changes in the appearance of a person who is constantly nearby.

You can hear a sharp change in sound, for example, in cold weather, when you turn on music in an insufficiently warmed interior. Low frequencies will sound flat and somehow “oaky,” but after normal warming up of the car, the sound returns to its usual conditions. Of course, there is a partial influence of changes in air density in the case, but I think there is no need to explain what happens to the suspension and washers at low temperatures.

How to properly adjust settings

It is important to take into account the driver's personal preferences. In general, the settings depend on what kind of music you listen to.

Fans of rap, hip-hop and dubstep often enjoy "deep" bass that makes the whole body vibrate. To get it, you need to set the sound to a level of about 30–50 Hz. By the way, these genres are perhaps the only ones where such low sounds are used at all.
If you prefer instrumental music, the minimum frequency level will be 40 Hz. Below is simply not necessary. Moreover, if you tune the bass too low, the double bass and bass guitar will lose overtones, which means the sound will become “artificial”, as if “electronic”.
Fans of “club” music (“house”, “trance”) also do not require too low frequencies. Drum machines require a range of 40 to 100 Hz to reproduce.

about the benefits of “warm-up” the system and some stereotypes

Many of you have probably heard the concept of “warm-up the system.”
It is understood that after installing new equipment, it takes some time for it to “warm up” and start working at 100%. This is especially true for speakers and subwoofers. They say that the amplifiers also begin to play differently after warming up. Maybe. many skeptics don't believe this. There are cases when such skeptics burn out the acoustics on the second or third day of use, despite the installers’ warnings that they CANNOT be turned all the way down. Also, there are a lot of cases when on forums people splutter in an attempt to prove that the system does not need to be warmed up, that everything works from the beginning and all this is nonsense...

and so it so happened that this Saturday three cars came to us at once after warming up.

Three cars: Volvo S60 Mercedes Benz C180 Mercedes Benz GL400

all three have new audio systems. Different levels. Reports on all installations can be found on our website if anyone is interested.

Let's look at the frequency response graphs of the cars taken immediately after installation, at the time of arrival for the final tuning and after the final tuning.

Here we need to make a clarification - measurements are carried out on “pink noise”, all settings of standard systems are “zero”. The frequency response obtained at the very end (i.e. after the equalizer settings) reflects MY understanding of how the frequency response should look. In some cases, at the very end, we adjusted the settings together with the clients. The systems were customized to the customer's taste. After that I did not remove the frequency response. I don't see much point in this.

So. Volvo S60. After installing the system and pre-tuning using the Audison Bit tune complex

Source

Don’t pile more than half for a couple of weeks.

I support! and then when you turn it on (especially in the cold) listen for 1-3 minutes not loudly - let it get drunk!

There's no need for break-in! He just won’t play very well at first, but then he’ll warm up and everything will be ok!

I agree) you need to stretch it properly. A friend of mine hung it up at home and he spent several days either at 20 or 40 Hz just playing at home... in general, he was warming it up in this way. since the competition was just around the corner and the sound was needed, the neighbors had to suffer a little)))

don’t go all out, if memory serves, about 100 hours they shouldn’t work all the way

splw only in dreams

break-in is needed. I always recommend about a month. It may take a long time, but it will play out well.

In winter, if it’s minus outside, then let it warm up.

And so the efficiency of a dyne is always better when it’s cold.

On a cold roll.

break-in is needed. I always recommend about a month. It may take a long time, but it will play out well.

In winter, if it’s minus outside, then let it warm up.

And so the efficiency of a dyne is always better when it’s cold.

Well, to be honest, a month is a very, very long time. you are proposing to engage in about 72 times more assholery. 720 hours per month. after 10 hours, the din will be as soft as slime)

I bought a sub from a friend, for some reason he didn’t like it, I ran it in as recommended above, after a while it got used to it, the rubber bands are more elastic than steel and now it’s bombing at full speed... and when my friend heard it he was stunned))) I wanted to buy it back))) but it didn’t work out I liked it.

and for this it did not need to be specially coated)

Well, in general, of course, it’s better not to unscrew the new din as much as possible right away)

I’m currently in the process of running it in, my hand is tempted to jump in, but for now I’m holding back =), ), )

Should it smell like something is burning when you push it hard?

Rockford Fosgate P1L-112 this is what I had, all the plastic came apart like a lightning strike) ) )

and if you don’t “break in” but immediately put sound on the new sub, what will happen to it?

nothing will happen)) that's all bullshit)

connected and immediately piled on the blacks)

Mizer934, ))))) I did the same)))))

I didn’t test anything, but after about a month the sound became softer and that’s it!

I also haven’t driven it in both the ground and the summer, super trrrrr trrrrr trrrrr trrrrr I don’t think it’s necessary, it’s not a car!

Can anyone explain why it is not advisable to pile on immediately? I read 100,500 times about the routing of new speakers and how “this is important,” but no one explained why. What difference will it make if you warm up the sub according to science, or just immediately use it fully (not halfway, but all the way) and after some time it will warm up on its own? I’ve never warmed it up myself - I’m not that patient) I usually immediately connect a new speaker (still without a housing) to the most powerful amplifier and push it through its entire stroke until it produces a characteristic sound or even pops :) Then, when I’ve played enough, I make a box and again at full speed: )

Well, basically everything depends on the expiration date of the subwoofer. If you pile on it right away, it will live less. + an unboosted zero coil can die immediately (this, of course, does not necessarily happen, but 20-30% of cases have this outcome). Actually, we won’t hear a difference in the playing of a “boosted” and “immediately piled on” subwoofer in a couple of months, but the equipment will show quite different indicators of noise, wheezing, etc. So reasons 2. Service life and sound quality (which will not be particularly audible).

So I thought that this is only relevant on devices, and perhaps in the highest classes of SQ) Shelf life... Speakers have been playing for decades +- 15% not relevant)

The comparison with boots is not true! For a speaker, less rigidity =/= better... I know what the speaker parameters are and how they change before and after warm-up. The essence of the question is a little different: what will be worse if the speaker is not crushed according to science, but left to fate) I had an assumption (Denis also confirmed in principle) that it would have a little more distortion and other crap that is only possible on devices see.

After the warm-up, the sub's sensitivity will be a little better, the suspension will be softer, that is, it will be easier for the sub, as already said, to run back and forth. Yesterday the guy bought himself a sub, I came to him and he was already feeling scorched - the guy was piling on and, in a good way, this is the beginning of the end. Well, in general, I personally am in favor of warming up.

Important points

Be careful with statements like:

“The plant has kneaded everything and prepared it.” To think so is at least naive. Just imagine a workshop of a large manufacturer, where a new speaker appears every minute, in which hundreds of subs stand and “warm up” for several hours.
“The material of the suspension and washer does not change their properties, and if they gradually became more elastic, then the sub would become sloppy after prolonged use.” This is what people say who are far from understanding the properties of rubber products and the like. In my line of work, I dealt with membranes that are installed in precision pressure regulators. So, after receiving and unpacking, to increase reliability, they are installed in a stand on which their continuous operation at partial speed is simulated for several hours, after which they acquire the declared properties and retain them for a long time.

Video: how to warm up a subwoofer, and most importantly - why!

Happy exercise!

Selecting music to configure

At the stage of selecting suitable tracks, you can act in two ways:

buy a special disc (it is sold in many car stores). Compositions with different instruments are recorded on it, with the help of which you can determine the shortcomings of individual components of the speaker system;
use regular music. Choose songs that have good bass. However, it should not be electronic! Only “live” instruments are needed - bass guitar, double bass, etc. Play songs at low volume to eliminate the possibility of damage to equipment.

To properly configure the subbuffer, choose tracks with “live” music that have high-quality bass

The nuances of setting up a car's sound system

So, let's start setting up. The process is carried out in several stages:

Enables the low pass filter. This is done to minimize the high and mid frequencies so that only the bass is heard. For this purpose, the technology has a frequency filter. It is usually called "LPF", Low Pass Filter, LPF or LF. The component can be located on the radio, the amplifier, or both.
Pre-setting frequency and volume. Find the regulator that controls the filter frequency. On amplifiers it often has a round shape and is labeled Frequency. It is necessary to set the indicator to 80 Hz. Thanks to this, only lower frequencies will be amplified, and the rest will begin to be reproduced in a greatly attenuated form. Also find the sensitivity switch. It is accompanied by the words Level or Gain. Set the subwoofer's volume relative to the other speakers. Just don’t set the value too high, otherwise the bass will lose its “natural” sound.
Switching polarity selection. Some people believe that polarity must be strictly observed when connecting speakers. This is not entirely true. How the components were connected only determines which direction the speaker cone will move, which affects the sound. To adjust the setting, play music in which the low frequencies are provided by clearly distinguishable instruments. Choose a connection option in which the sound from the subwoofer will be virtually indistinguishable from the sound of the main acoustic components. Be sure to check how the music feels in the back and front seats. By the way, all this must be done with closed doors! If you hear the bass only coming from behind, something is wrong. If you can't get the desired result, turn down the volume a little and try again.
Adjusting the subsonic. “Sabsonic” is a subtonal filter that removes sounds that are too low. This is important because too much bass can damage the components of the speaker system. The best option is to set the subsonic to about 20 Hz. If you like to listen to bass at maximum volume, you can increase this figure to 40 Hz. It is especially important to pay attention to this parameter if you are using a subwoofer with a bass reflex.
Subwoofer setup in combination with mid-bass speakers. Adjust the low pass filter and volume again. We focus on our tastes. For example, lovers of “soft” bass are recommended to reduce the filter value and increase the volume. Fans of “hard” bass will like increasing the filter frequency.

Sabsonic is responsible for the safety of your speakers

WARMING UP A SUBWOOFER AFTER PURCHASE AND REPAIR