How to connect speakers and subwoofer Hello. Please tell me how to connect two speakers and a subwoofer to a computer? Before.
New speakers - the subwoofer rattles even if you turn it up a little Hello, please help! I bought speakers with a subwoofer, they work, but the subwoofer rattles.
What is better to buy - good speakers (+ subwoofer) or a good sound card? Of course, I understand that you need to buy both things for great sound, but still.
There is no sound, there is a red cross next to the icon and more than one jack does not work (I tried both speakers and headphones). I went into the device manager, there is only a microphone, in the sound tab it says no sound devices.
How should a subwoofer work? Question about choosing 2.1 speakers; 5.1; 7.1 or just a separate subwoofer. How should a buffer work correctly?
The speakers are 100% “yelling”, and the buffer, like in “back-chain at the Negro”, are “farted” by 10-15%. This is for 2.1 systems, etc. with general volume control. But with other models with “bass” and “treble” volume controls, I have not achieved this in any store or with any acoustic system (regardless of the price = from 1,000 rubles to 30,000 rubles).
I unhooked the speakers = the “bass” thumps well (the volume is 100%, they’re already wheezing), I hooked up the speakers = the speakers “yell”, but I can’t even hear the “bass” in the “ass” (ear to subwoofer). This seems to be an “illusion”, supposedly the buffer is “thumping”, but in reality. In my opinion, the buffer should work simultaneously with the speakers or be 15-20% quieter (maximum), but not 80%. If this is how it should be, then I have nothing to buy, just remake it or make a homemade stick.
How to properly adjust the volume of a subwoofer in a car (video tutorial)
Subwoofers are great at making music loud, but only up to a point. For example, if you don't adjust the subwoofer correctly, your music may sound distorted and too loud. The trick is to set the volume of your subwoofer in your car correctly so that the strong bass doesn't make your car burst at the seams. Fortunately, setting the settings is very easy. You can do this in just a few seconds.
Sub wheezes at low volume
If the subwoofer wheezes at any volume, then you need to check the speaker and the low-frequency amplifier separately. When making a low-frequency speaker with your own hands, the loudspeaker can be bought secondhand on the radio market and often without checking. Therefore, the reason for the wheezing of the subwoofer speaker may be in an obviously faulty head. To exclude ULF, the speaker can be checked using any source of low-frequency signal. If the sub wheezes in the bass, then a simple check of the speaker's moving system can be done by hand. You need to place the speaker on a horizontal surface and, pressing on the diffuser, gently “pump” it. The moving system should move easily without rustling or bumping.
If the subwoofer wheezes in the car, then you need to check all the components of the sound path one by one. It’s good if it is possible to use a known-good speaker and amplifier for testing. Another reason for a wheezing subwoofer may be a malfunction of the low-frequency amplifier.
This may be a breakdown of the semiconductor elements of the pre-output stage, “swelling” or leakage of electrolytic capacitors. Most faults can be localized by external inspection of the amplifier board, but a more serious analysis will require measuring equipment.
Using a subwoofer in a stereo system
A subwoofer is a device that reproduces low frequencies that its broadband counterparts cannot handle. Therefore, it is built into the speaker system for a richer bass sound.
To evaluate the benefits of a subwoofer, consider a stereo system with and without it.
A system without a subwoofer consists of a sound source (player like DVD, CD) and a stereo amplifier to which this signal is supplied. At the output of the stereo amplifier, the signal goes to the speakers. In this method, the signal passes through a minimally short chain, which means it reaches the speakers in its original quality. Which, by the way, is not always high.
A system with a subwoofer has a longer and more variable chain.
The first option is that the stereo signal is fed to both the stereo amplifier and the subwoofer filter. It turns out that the full signal from the source arrives at the speakers, and the initial component from two channels reaches the subwoofer: the original one, as in the method without a subwoofer, and the one that passed through its filter.
Another option is that the stereo signal immediately goes to the subwoofer, where it is divided into two ranges: low frequency and mid/high frequency. From the midrange/highpass filter, the signal is fed to the input of the stereo amplifier of the front satellite speakers, and the low-pass signal is fed to the input of the subwoofer amplifier.
There are other options, but one way or another, it all comes down to this: the full spectrum of the signal or the mid/high frequency component reaches the front speakers.
What conclusion can be drawn from all this? In the first case, the front speakers are powerful broadband systems, and the subwoofer helps them at low frequencies.
In the second case, the front speakers are satellites with very modest power. The low frequency strap is completely pulled by the subwoofer. This allows you to save on speakers and assemble the most compact system of average quality.
The advantages of a subwoofer in speakers naturally follow from this:
- wider range than using only speakers;
- the ability to achieve lower frequencies;
- higher volume without sound distortion;
- in the case of using an active subwoofer - improved reproduction of the mid/high frequency range by unloading the stereo amplifier for the front speakers and the speakers themselves.
However, the advantages do not mean that a subwoofer should be built into every speaker! The fact is that it is “responsible” for various effects such as explosions, bass, etc. What does this mean? It's perfect if you're a fan of blockbusters, rock music or rap. But if the speaker is used for classical music, where there is less bass and more high notes, then it will most likely spoil the overall sound.
Why does the subwoofer wheeze on my computer?
A common cause of wheezing in a low-frequency speaker is a tear or break in the conductors running from the voice coil to the speaker terminals. It happens that for normal operation of the speaker there is not enough input power. A set of sound equipment for a computer usually consists of a bass speaker in which a low-frequency amplifier and two broadband satellite speakers are mounted. After long-term operation of the system, an unstable contact may occur in the variable resistor “Volume”, which can also cause the woofer to wheeze. Before disassembling the column to troubleshoot, you need to check and reinstall the drivers.
Subwoofer Types
All subwoofers are divided into two main groups:
- Passive - do not have a built-in amplifier, so they are connected to an external speaker or to a receiver in parallel with other speakers. A loop-through connection to a separate output on the audio source can also be used, but this increases the load on the speaker amplifiers and may reduce sound quality.
- Active - equipped with a built-in amplifier. It allows you to adjust the volume and signal strength, which ensures smoother integration of the subwoofer into the speaker system. Like passive devices, active devices can be connected to a line output on a source that transmits pre-high-frequency sound, either in parallel or through a loop.
The active subwoofer amplifier is usually used as a common amplifier for the entire system, so the speakers are connected to this device.
Subwoofer hums
A more complex situation involves a faulty low-frequency amplifier power supply. In this case, the position of the volume control has no effect on the low-frequency background level. What to do if the subwoofer hums constantly and disconnecting the input cables does not lead to the disappearance of the background. To solve this problem you will have to open the amplifier case. Regardless of the design of the power source, large-capacity electrolytic capacitors are installed at its output, which act as filters, limiting the low-frequency component of the DC supply voltage to a minimum.
During prolonged operation, the electrolyte located inside the capacitor dries out, which leads to a change in the internal resistance and strong heating of the case. As a result, the capacitor “swells”, and the petals of the housing open slightly. Failed electrolytic capacitors are easy to find with careful external inspection. If the upper petals have not opened, but a bulge is noticeable, the capacitors must also be replaced. To make the power supply work more reliably, it is recommended to install new capacitors rated for a higher voltage than specified in the specification. If the subwoofer hisses and does not work, then most likely no sound signal is sent to its input. If you touch the input connector with the tip of a screwdriver, a strong hum will be heard in the speaker, which indicates the serviceability of the low-frequency path.
Third step: adjust output sensitivity
The output sensitivity adjustment filter also looks like a wheel for scrolling with a screwdriver and is designated “GAIN” or “LEVEL”.
There is a misconception that this parameter is responsible for the volume of the subwoofer, in fact this is not the case, even though when set to the upper positions the volume does increase. This filter is responsible for the coordinated operation of the head unit and subwoofer, and is configured using a specific method that has four simple steps:
- set the controls on the radio and amplifier to minimum and the sound signal will sound to check;
- the volume gradually increases until the first distortions in the sound appear, after which it returns to the last position at which there was a clear sound;
- then the regulator on the amplifier rotates upward until the first sound distortions appear;
- as soon as distortions appear, the regulator returns to the extreme position at which they did not exist.
Why does a subwoofer sound like a speaker?
On the old head, most likely, the cutoff frequencies were set around 100 Hz (therefore they were not cut off on the amplifier); on the new head, I think you can do the same (if the amplifier for the subwoofer is connected through low-level wires). Therefore, the amplifier has a kind of crossover - the frequency switch (for a sub) you need to move it to the 80 Hz position and the sub will play in its range. How to adjust the gain (the signal level that the system sends to the sub). Set the volume on the radio to the middle, then turn the gain smoothly until sound distortion appears, and then return the gain a little to the back (by 1/2 -1 division).SUBWOOFERS.Setting up subwoofers.
Source: Car Tuning magazine (with the participation of Car&Music), April 2012
Our magazine has already talked a lot about car subwoofers - both how to choose a suitable speaker and how to make the right housing for it. But one important issue was mentioned only in passing: customization. We often receive letters like “I’ve done everything, but it still doesn’t play as it should.” So, let's figure out what needs to be switched and tweaked to make the sub play as it should.
What is bass anyway? But before we immediately rush to turn knobs and flip switches, let's clarify a little what a bass is as such. The speaker, with its oscillating diffuser, creates alternating compression and rarefaction of air. It is generally accepted that the average person perceives such air vibrations as sound if they occur at frequencies from 16-20 times per second to 14-18 thousand times per second. That is, from 16-20 hertz to 14-18 kilohertz. So, bass is considered to be the lowest range of these sound vibrations - from approximately 20 to 150 Hz. It is at these frequencies that the diffusers of subwoofers and midbass speakers vibrate. They usually say that fluctuations up to 50 Hz are low bass, 50-100 are mid-bass, and 100-150 are upper bass (although this division is very arbitrary and approximate). REMEMBER THAT THE JOB OF A SUBWOOFER IS NOT TO SING WITH YOUR VOICE, BUT TO REPRODUCE ONLY THE LOWEST FREQUENCIES. MUSIC SHOULD BE PLAYED BY THE MAIN SPEAKER SYSTEMS (FRONT OR TOGETHER WITH THE REAR), AND THE SUB SHOULD ONLY GIVE THE SOUND THE NECESSARY MASSIVENESS AND SOUNDNESS BY THE WAY When tuning the bass, it is useful to know which frequency range in the sound is responsible for what. For example, let's take a drum set: the frequency region around 40 Hz determines the depth and softness of the blow, in the region 63 Hz - the weightiness and severity of the blow, the region around 80 Hz - the hardness of the blow. In the sound of a bass guitar or double bass, frequencies in the region of 40-50 Hz determine the massiveness of the instrument, and in the region of 100 Hz - the density and elasticity of the bass.
What are we listening to? But the physics of the process, let's now look at this whole thing from the musical side. Let's start with rap, hip-hop or dubstep. Black guys especially love low, guttural bass on the verge of infrasound, which makes all the insides vibrate. So, this “gut shaker” is sounds with frequencies in the region of 30-50 Hz. You may be surprised, but these are perhaps the only genres that require full reproduction of such low frequencies; in all other musical genres, such deep bass does not carry any serious information. For example, if you take music with “live” instruments, then almost all the informative component and energy of the bass is concentrated in the frequency range above 40 Hz. For example, bass guitar. The sound of its strings consists not only of fundamental tones, but also of overtones - harmonics from the fundamental tone, which have higher frequencies. It's their character that distinguishes the sound of, say, Marcus Miller's bass guitar from, say, Cliff Burton's bass guitar, even if they were trying to play the same melody in the same key. It is the overtones that have the highest information content in the sound of most instruments. Or take, for example, dynamic electronic music - a cheerful club. The classics of house and trance are the sound of the Roland TR-909 and TR-808 drum machines, and their frequency spectrum also does not lie in the deepest bass region - 40-100 Hz.
IF THE SUBWOOFER IS BADLY MATCHED WITH THE MIDBASS, THE BASS WILL HAPPEN, AND THE SOUND WILL LOSE DRIVE, VISUALITY, AND EMOTIONALITY. IF THIS IS A “LIVE” INSTRUMENT, THEN THE NATURALITY OF ITS SOUND WILL SUFFER. IN ELECTRONIC MUSIC WE WILL NOT GET A Dense BASS RHYTHM, BUT EITHER A SLAP HOOTING, OR, ON THE OPPOSITE, A BOOMING BATTLE WHICH WILL START TO GIVE YOUR HEAD ACHING AFTER 10 MINUTES. IN THE WORST CASE, THE SUB WILL BE PERCEIVED AS PLAYING SEPARATELY, AS WELL AS BY ITSELF.
First stage: turn on the low-pass filter So, we need to attenuate the mid and high frequencies in the subwoofer signal, and leave only the low ones. A frequency filter can do this, in this case a low-pass filter (LPF, also known as Low Pass Filter, denoted as LPF or simply LP). It passes everything below the tuning frequency and attenuates everything above it. Such a filter can be equipped, for example, with a head unit, an amplifier, or it can be both there and there at the same time.
Second stage: set the preliminary tuning frequency and subwoofer volume. Now find the regulator responsible for the filter tuning frequency. In an amplifier, this is an ordinary “twist”, designated as Frequency or something like that. Set it to 80 Hz for now. With this setting, only low frequencies will pass unhindered to the subwoofer, and everything above 80 Hz will be noticeably attenuated. Find another “knob” - sensitivity (can be designated as Level or Gain), use it to adjust the volume of the subwoofer relative to the main speakers. Don't go too far with the level; the sub shouldn't overpower everything else!
IF THE SUB LEVEL IS TOO HIGH, THEN THE BASS WILL LOSE ITS NATURALITY (IMPORTANT FOR “LIVE” MUSICAL GENRES), CLARITY AND ELASTICITY (IMPORTANT FOR ANY MUSIC). EVEN IF YOU ARE A GREAT LOVER OF “GUTS-MAKING” AND “HAIR-EXCELLENT” ELECTRONICS, STILL “CUMB YOUR IMPOSSIBILITY, A LOT OF BAD BASS IS WORSE THAN AS MUCH GOOD.”
Third stage: selecting the polarity of the subwoofer There is a common but erroneous opinion that speakers can only be connected by strictly observing the polarity indicated on the amplifier, they say, plus to plus and minus to minus. Otherwise, they will supposedly work “in the wrong direction” and quickly fail. In fact, the speaker cone always moves in the same way both “plus” and “minus” relative to its rest position, and the polarity of the connection only determines which direction it will go “first” and which “later”. This, of course, does not in any way affect the well-being of the speaker, but it does affect its sound. So at this stage we will determine the correct polarity for turning on the subwoofer.
Play music that contains clearly distinguishable low-frequency instruments and try to choose a subwoofer connection option in which its sound will merge as much as possible with the main acoustics, and will be as clear and collected as possible. Since the sound picture from the front and rear seats will be different, you will have to run around: change the polarity on the subwoofer - get behind the wheel and listen, then go back to the trunk: change it, listen, choose the best option. Remember to listen behind closed doors. Ideally, you shouldn't be able to hear the bass coming from behind. When you sit in front, it should seem like the front, main speakers are loud. If you can’t achieve such a solid and cohesive sound, then perhaps you’ve gone a little overboard with the subwoofer volume (in this case, just turn down the sensitivity on the amplifier), you’ve made some mistakes in the manufacture of the cabinet (it produces parasitic overtones), or you just have something is rattling in the trunk (these sounds, by the way, do not have to be clearly audible; they can be successfully masked by a subwoofer).
Fourth stage: adjusting the sabsonic
Many bass amplifiers are equipped with a so-called “subtonal filter”, a subtonal filter. This is actually a regular high-pass filter that attenuates everything in the signal that is below its tuning frequency, that is, it removes the very, very low frequencies. Here, for sure, the question may arise - why is it needed, isn’t the sub designed to reproduce lower frequencies? The whole point is that the lower the frequency, the higher the stroke of the speaker, and at ultra-low frequencies it can be so large that it’s not far from a torn suspension, a broken diffuser or a jammed voice coil. I have often observed a situation where the subwoofer cone shakes, and the bass is sluggish and booming. On the contrary, really loud, rich and elastic bass can often be produced by a subwoofer, the diffuser of which seems to barely move. But we have already said that in real music there are practically no frequencies below 30 Hz, even in the most killer gangsta rap. Therefore, we can attenuate uninformative ultra-low frequencies with absolutely no damage to the music. Being freed from them, the subwoofer will play much better - it will have a clearer and stronger bass, and the maximum volume limit will increase. Set the subsonic to a frequency of about 20 Hz. If you like very loud bass, you can raise its setting to 30, and in extreme cases even up to 40 Hz. Don't worry, you won't lose any of the richness and meatiness of the bass, but you'll keep the speaker intact. By the way, if you have a subwoofer in a housing with a bass reflex, then the subwoofer is generally a must have. The fact is that in a closed case, the volume of air contained inside holds the speaker and prevents it from becoming too loose. But in a bass reflex, this happens only above the port tuning frequency, and at lower frequencies the diffuser dangles practically unrestrained by anything, and very quickly reaches its physical travel limits with all, as they say, that entails.
Fifth stage: “merging” the sound of the subwoofer with the sound of the midbass speakers more carefully At this stage of tuning, you will have to find the optimal setting frequency of the low-pass filter (LPF, LP) and the volume of the subwoofer. These two adjustments should always be set together. The principle is something like this:
- If we reduce the LP cutoff frequency and simultaneously increase the volume, the bass becomes softer and deeper. But if you overdo it, you can get the effect when the front of the bass beat is separated from the very low-frequency content - the sub will sound as if on its own.
- If we increase the LP cutoff frequency, the bass becomes harder and acquires greater impact. At the same time, the volume needs to be reduced, otherwise you can get excessive “beating”, and it will no longer be a bass, but a hollow, booming sound, like hitting an empty barrel with a stick; we don’t need this either. In a well-tuned system, the subwoofer should not be perceived as playing separately. It should blend in with the sound of the main acoustics as if it were the one playing bass. Try to make the instruments sound as natural as possible. And then you can say with confidence: “Yes, I have very good quality bass in my car.”
In this case, we need a high-pass filter (HPF, Low Pass Filter, LPF, LP). It works, as you probably already understood, exactly the opposite of a low-pass filter - it passes everything above the tuning frequency and attenuates everything below. If you turn it on, you will attenuate the lowest bass in the signal to the main speakers. And it doesn’t matter that small 6.5-inch midbass (or whatever you have) doesn’t really reproduce low bass, being freed from low-frequency signals, the speakers will play much easier, elasticity and clarity will appear in the sound, buzzing and door sounds will go away , blending the sound of midbass with subwoofer will become much easier. If you can adjust the high-pass filter in the main channels, then configure this filter first, without turning on the subwoofer. Too high a tuning frequency deprives the sound of solidity and weight, and if the diffuser stroke is too low, it can be too large. Find a compromise in which the speaker cones will have a small stroke, but the bass will not be lost. After this, proceed to setting up the subwoofer.
IF THE DIFFUSER WALKS, ALMOST JUMPING OUT OF THE SPEAKER, THIS IS ACTUALLY NOT A SIGN OF COOLness. OFTEN JUST EXACTLY THE OPPOSITE.
Many amplifiers are equipped with a phase shifter. It is needed to more accurately match the sound of the subwoofer and midbass speakers. At step number 3, we selected the best switching polarity by simply switching the wires at the subwoofer speaker terminals. This essentially corresponds to the extreme positions of the phase shifter, which are designated as “0” and “180 degrees”. The phase shifter itself also allows you to set intermediate values. You can use it when finalizing the system.
A COMMON MISTAKE Many people install oval speakers and a subwoofer at the back, naively believing that the bigger the better. This is an erroneous judgment. Ovals, if installed correctly, are quite bassy in themselves, so it turns out that they will reproduce the same part of the sound spectrum simultaneously with the subwoofer. But they will do it in different ways (we won’t go into details now, the reason for this is the difference in phase and impulse characteristics), and in the end it will turn out like in that saying: some go to the forest, some go for the firewood. Will you get normal bass? Of course not.
THIS IS INTERESTING
Of the real, non-electronic percussion instruments, the deepest bass is provided by Japanese Taiko drums. Taiko in Japanese means “a large drum that fills the air with beats that sound like thunder and the gentle babbling of a stream at the same time.” Not without romanticism, however.
Is it possible to connect speakers to a subwoofer?
Connecting other speakers to the active subwoofer is quite simple. The passive version does not have a standard audio amplifier, so you will need to purchase and install it. If this is not possible, then the sub can be connected directly to the acoustics. However, in this case the sound quality will be insufficient. To ensure sound filtering, you can optionally install a filter.
ATTENTION! The filter can slightly enhance the audio signal supplied to the speaker, but the sound quality will increase slightly.
Thus, the best way is to use an amplifier. This way the load on the speakers is significantly reduced.
Simultaneous activation of the radio and amplifier
Most amplifiers have protection against transient processes; when turned on, there is a delay; perhaps many have noticed that the amplifier turns on a little later than the radio. So we need to check this algorithm. To do this, disconnect the control wire (remote) from the amplifier without disconnecting the signal wires, then turn on the radio, and after a while (5-10 seconds) connect the control wire manually. If there is no pop, then perhaps the capacitor that determines the delay time for turning on the amplifier has partially lost its capacity. This is an amplifier repair, but a fairly simple one.
If the amplifier does not have such an algorithm, you can install a button on the remote and turn on the system yourself if you want to listen to music. You can also use a delay relay, but the button is cheap and brutal.
Types of amplifiers
Currently, there are several main types of sound amplifiers:
- Mono amplifiers designed for low-frequency subwoofers;
- Two-channel, which are used if only front speakers are installed in the car. In this case, such an amplifier allows you to reduce battery power consumption, since it affects only one pair of speakers;
- Three-channel, which are necessary if the car, in addition to front speakers, also has a subwoofer;
- Four-channel. This is a device with which you can strengthen the entire acoustic system, and not just its individual elements.
Speakers with subwoofer
Reasons why the subwoofer in the car stopped working
The most important thing when determining a low-frequency channel malfunction is to follow the sequence of operations. In this case, you won't have to do extra work.
There can be many reasons why a subwoofer in a car does not work. This is a failure of any element of the low-frequency complex or a violation of cable connections. Troubleshooting always begins with an external inspection. It allows you to identify damage or irregularities noticeable to the eye. First of all, this concerns connecting cables. The figure shows a diagram of connecting a low-frequency channel with a passive speaker and a storage capacitor. Not shown here is remote control for turning on the amplifier's power, which is not always used. A large number of contact points in the connecting wires reduces the reliability of the system. Most often, the sub does not work in the car for two reasons:
- Disturbance in the power supply circuit
- No sound signal from the radio
During a sequential test, the presence of supply voltage at the amplifier terminals is first checked. This check is performed using a tester. If the sub in your car stops working, you need to check the battery terminals and, if there is an oxide film, clean them with fine sandpaper and degrease them. Next, the voltage at the terminals of the storage capacitor is checked. All cable connections under the nut must be cleaned and tightened. Lastly, the voltage at the power terminals of the low-frequency amplifier is measured. If it is present and the indicator is lit, the connection of the passive speaker is checked.
Subwoofer Types
All subwoofers are divided into two main groups:
- Passive - do not have a built-in amplifier, so they are connected to an external speaker or to a receiver in parallel with other speakers. A loop-through connection to a separate output on the audio source can also be used, but this increases the load on the speaker amplifiers and may reduce sound quality.
- Active - equipped with a built-in amplifier. It allows you to adjust the volume and signal strength, which ensures smoother integration of the subwoofer into the speaker system. Like passive devices, active devices can be connected to a line output on a source that transmits pre-high-frequency sound, either in parallel or through a loop.
The active subwoofer amplifier is usually used as a common amplifier for the entire system, so the speakers are connected to this device.
Active subwoofer "Crown" does not work
The Crown brand produces both automotive active low-frequency systems and household devices intended for personal computers. The Crown car active subwoofer is distinguished by its barrel-shaped body. How to check the subwoofer if it stops working. The design of sound devices is practically no different from each other, so detection and localization of faults is carried out according to general rules. If the built-in power supply fails, the power-on indicator light will not work. In any case, the active column will need to be opened to visually identify possible burnt radioelements.
The subwoofer turns on, but does not work, and a low-frequency hum is heard in the loudspeaker, the volume of which changes when the “Gain” knob is turned. This means that the low frequency channel is working, but there is no input signal from the external device. You can check the sound system by applying an audio signal from any source to the input connector.
I want to sound the street for a couple of blocks))
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#1 OFFLINE Nehalem
- From: Russia, Perm
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#2 OFFLINE eXtrimaLL
- From: Perm, Russia
Hello specialists)) please advise a combination of VUS and sub so that the bass can be felt at a distance outside the car, I still can’t achieve this, how many subs have I already tried? At the moment there is a combination of Kicks cap47 + dls oa12d car 2110, sub in the shelf in 35l. Inside the car it’s pounding and your hair is moving as soon as you go out into the street you can’t hear anything. For some, the sub Mystery plays can be heard a couple of blocks away, but for me it’s a fart, a fart and that’s it. ))) maybe take something from JL Audio or kicker cvr124?
Try to buy here https://samsung.vacuu. ll/_pw_/904766/ there are 2 of these. . And you will be happy.
For you, take the Kicker S15L7. and attach the trunk lid to the garage lock so that it does not open
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