The subwoofer in the car does not work. The sub in the car stopped working

Subwoofer in car doesn't work

An automobile low-frequency system is designed to reproduce bass frequencies in the audio range. The presence of such acoustics provides a fuller and richer sound that cannot be achieved using only front and rear speakers. A sound set consists of a limited number of elements that are connected to each other in a certain sequence. If the subwoofer stops working, then troubleshooting should be carried out step by step. This method will allow you to exclude serviceable components and accurately localize the fault that has arisen. The car low-frequency kit includes the following units:

Sound source
Amplifier
Acoustic system

If an active device is installed in the car, there is no need for a separate amplifier, since it is combined in one housing with a speaker.

Subwoofer doesn't turn on

Power to the low-frequency automotive system is supplied from the battery. Since it is located under the hood in the engine compartment, and the low-frequency unit can be installed in the passenger compartment or trunk, very often the reason why the sub has stopped working is a defect in the connecting cables. Due to constant vibration, contact connections can be damaged. Oxidation of battery terminals often occurs when the resistance at the point of contact changes greatly. If the subwoofer in the car does not work, but there is power, you must first check the functionality of the low-frequency amplifier. If power is supplied to the amplifier, the LED voltage indicator on the device body will light up. You can make sure that the ULF works in a simple way. You need to disconnect the wire going to the car radio from the input, turn on the power and use the end of a screwdriver to touch the central contact of the coaxial connector. Most low-frequency active speakers are equipped with connectors of this type RCA or “Tulip”. If the amplifier is working properly, a low-frequency hum will be heard in the speaker. If a passive car subwoofer equipped with an external ULF does not work, then you first need to make sure that the speaker is working properly.

The radio turns off when the volume increases: turns off, why, adding, adding, immediately

The radio in a car is one of the most powerful consumers of energy. It happens that the radio turns off when the volume is increased, and after turning it on again it continues to work normally, but at a lower sound level. This is especially true for powerful devices equipped with subwoofers.

Possible reasons

If there is an internal breakdown of the device, the car radio turns off when the volume increases while driving quickly over bumps. If the vehicle's battery is discharged, the radio, when operating at high volume, turns off when the high beams are turned on or the car engine is started.

If the power supply circuits are not connected reliably, a lack of power appears. Because of this, the device constantly turns off. If there is damage or leakage in the speaker wiring, the radio will turn off by itself. If the overvoltage protection is triggered, the operation of the audio device will also be interrupted when the volume increases.

Defect or breakdown

During production, shortcomings are often made that lead to defects, for example, a short circuit between the terminals of microcircuits. Also, turning off the device often occurs due to a breakdown of the car radio.

Problems connecting speakers

Incorrect connection of the speakers or signal leakage to the car body is another reason for the radio to suddenly turn off. Also, spontaneous shutdown of the radio is provoked by problems in the speakers - breakdown, short circuit in the coil, too low resistance or bridging of the connectors to the speaker body. Speaker problems can be easily identified using a digital multimeter. On the displays of some radios, a message appears indicating that the protection has been activated.

Lack of power supply

This problem occurs if the car radio is connected to the power source with too thin wires, the thickness of which does not exceed 0.5 mm. The voltage drop is so significant that the device automatically turns off when the volume is turned up. A lack of power supply also occurs when the power connection is poor, for example, when the negative pole wire of a car radio is not securely connected.

To connect the “plus”, the wire leading to the instrument panel from the ignition switch is often cut. The cut ends are cleaned and then joined. This leads to the speedometer not working correctly or jerking. If during diagnostics of the motor control system erroneous entries are found, the ECU ground is not connected reliably due to improper connection of the radio to this circuit.

Reasons why the subwoofer in the car stopped working

The most important thing when determining a low-frequency channel malfunction is to follow the sequence of operations. In this case, you won't have to do extra work.

There can be many reasons why a subwoofer in a car does not work. This is a failure of any element of the low-frequency complex or a violation of cable connections. Troubleshooting always begins with an external inspection. It allows you to identify damage or irregularities noticeable to the eye. First of all, this concerns connecting cables. The figure shows a diagram of connecting a low-frequency channel with a passive speaker and a storage capacitor. Not shown here is remote control for turning on the amplifier's power, which is not always used. A large number of contact points in the connecting wires reduces the reliability of the system. Most often, the sub does not work in the car for two reasons:

Disturbance in the power supply circuit
No sound signal from the radio

During a sequential test, the presence of supply voltage at the amplifier terminals is first checked. This check is performed using a tester. If the sub in your car stops working, you need to check the battery terminals and, if there is an oxide film, clean them with fine sandpaper and degrease them. Next, the voltage at the terminals of the storage capacitor is checked. All cable connections under the nut must be cleaned and tightened. Lastly, the voltage at the power terminals of the low-frequency amplifier is measured. If it is present and the indicator is lit, the connection of the passive speaker is checked.

Connecting a car subwoofer

Modern low-frequency speakers for cars boast compactness and excellent performance. High power models require a 12 volt power supply. You can use the power supply from your computer

Be sure to pay attention to the fact that the output power of the power supply matches the power indicator of the built-in or external amplifier. If the performance of the computer unit is insufficient, the audio equipment will not work at full capacity

Let's carefully consider the process of connecting a passive subwoofer to an amplifier.

The first step is to turn on and start the power supply. To do this, you need to close certain 24 pin contacts (20+4) on the cord.
Afterwards you will need wires that can be disconnected from the connector (for example, molex). You can buy it at an electronics or computer store. To operate, you need black and yellow cables - minus 12 V and plus 12 V, respectively.
The connection is made taking into account polarity. It must be indicated on the amplifier housing.
For startup to be successful, the middle cable (polarity plus) must also be connected. Use a jumper to operate.
Now you should connect the subwoofer to the amplifier. If the amplifier is equipped with two channels, take “+” from one and “-” from the other.
Wires from other speakers are connected to the tulip ports.
The PC is connected to the amplifier using RCA - 3.5 mm adapters (miniJack), male-male format.

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The subwoofer in the car has stopped working, but there is power

If the subwoofer turns on but does not play, you should first check the connection and serviceability of external devices. These are speakers and a car radio. The signal from the output of the car stereo system is fed to the input of the low-frequency amplifier via a cable equipped with coaxial “Tulip” connectors. First, the presence of a signal at the output of the radio is checked. This can be done in any available way. Some models have a special connector designed to connect a low-frequency channel. You can check the presence of an output signal using a headphone, which is connected to the connector using any wiring. Next, the presence of a signal at the input terminals of the amplifier is checked. If the subwoofer stops playing, but a signal from the radio is received at its input, then the reason may be a malfunction of the amplifier itself or unconnected speakers. When an active subwoofer does not work, the problem is most likely in the amplifier, since the speaker and ULF unit are located in a common housing, a break in the wire between the amplifier and the loudspeaker is unlikely. The reasons why the subwoofer stopped working may be related to the failure of the output power transistors or integrated circuit. To eliminate such a defect, it is better to contact a service center.

Improvers

All literate people and correct lessons say that the improvers on the radio (extra bass, loud, equalizer, etc.) do not need to be touched. A natural question arises: “What are they even needed for?” It's simple - they provide the opportunity for individualization - choosing the nature of the sound to suit your tastes; create the misleading impression that the system can play any music; hide the obvious shortcomings of weak components on the stock.

I'm talking about standard ones, because in independent systems, components are selected for a certain musical direction, the design of the acoustics is created and the subwoofer settings are determined, and the equalizer is used to equalize the amplitude-frequency characteristics of the sound. Experienced people use an equalizer , because with such settings the risk is not always justified and you need to understand all the processes well.

Therefore, often turned on super-bass and a cranked-up equalizer, coupled with an unsuitable amplifier or weak wiring, send the speakers for repair.

Why does the active subwoofer in the car not work?

An active low-frequency system is a buried or bass-reflex enclosure that houses a low-frequency amplifier and a powerful bass driver. If the design is intended for installation in a car, then it receives power from a car battery. The household home speaker is equipped with a built-in power supply.

If the active subwoofer in the car does not turn on, you first need to check the fuse in the power circuit. It is usually located in the engine compartment next to the battery. In home systems, the fuse may be located on the back of the device or inside the case. In order to check or replace it, you will have to unscrew the back panel. If the active subwoofer in the car stops working, then first check the cable power supply line. If there is supply voltage, you need to check the speaker voice coil for an open circuit. This is done using a tester. Typically the winding resistance is 4 or 8 ohms. You can check the speaker for functionality by touching its contacts with the leads of a low-voltage battery. If the coil is working properly, you will hear a distinct click. When the active sub is not working, but there is power, you need to check the signal from an external source.

Via AUX, Bluetooth or USB

AUX. Whatever your soundbar, any audio playback device can connect to a source using AUX. So, you can simply connect the plug to your smartphone, and your music will be on the soundbar. For this you need an AUX RCA cable.

This is what an interface audio cable looks like - AUX RCA

Bluetooth. If your soundbar has a Bluetooth transmitter, you will find it marked on the device or packaging. In your smartphone settings, connect your device to the soundbar. The music will now be transmitted wirelessly.

USB. If your soundbar has a USB port, this will not always help you transfer music. Sound can, of course, be transmitted via a USB drive, but this will not always help you transfer music from your smartphone, since not all devices can be connected in this way. You can read whether your soundbar supports smartphones in the device instructions.

Why doesn't the subwoofer work, but the speakers do?

If the subwoofer turns on but does not work, and the speaker is connected and working properly, then the defect lies in the amplifier circuit. Most often, the semiconductor elements of the output stage burn out. There is a situation when the sub works, but does not play. When you touch the input contacts of the device, a low-frequency background is heard in the loudspeaker. In this case, you need to check the sound signal from the head unit to the low-frequency channel. There may be poor contact, a broken wire, or a malfunction of the music center. If the amp works but the sub doesn't, you need to check the subwoofer.

If a passive subwoofer stops working, the cause may be a broken speaker voice coil, a faulty amplifier or sound source. In automotive low-frequency systems, there are frequent cases of voice coil burnout. This occurs when a passive loudspeaker is supplied with power from a low-frequency amplifier that far exceeds the permissible power.

How to determine why the radio turns off and fix the problem

When listening to the radio in a car, especially with a fairly powerful audio system with good subwoofers and tweets, many devices experience malfunctions. Most often, car enthusiasts ask the question, why does the radio turn off when the volume is increased? Indeed, turning off the device when the volume is increased, especially when transmitting power to the bass, in a car audio system often turns off the radio.

What is the problem?

In this case, the device turns on again on its own without any problems, but operates at a lower volume. When I try to increase the volume, the situation repeats. Often, after turning off the radio, the user has to turn it on himself, which is very inconvenient.

Another situation that forces drivers to ask why the car radio turns off without warning is when the engine starts. Depending on the model and brand of the radio and the car, the shutdown can be short-term (when you start the engine, the device turns off for a couple of seconds and then plays again), or permanent, when you have to turn on the radio and adjust the sound again.

Why the home subwoofer on the computer does not work

When a subwoofer does not play on a computer, this may mean not only a malfunction of this device, but also a failure in the software. If after reinstalling the operating system the sound from the speakers and subwoofer disappears, then you need to install or update the drivers. If the control sound program has crashed, then there will be no signal at the computer's linear output jack. Its presence can be easily checked with headphones.

If the subwoofer works on a PC, but the speakers do not, then most likely the reason is in the connecting wires. The sound system for a personal computer consists of a central speaker, where the woofer and amplifier are located, and wideband acoustic satellite systems. When the sub stops playing, but the speakers continue to sound, this is due to damage to the voice coil of the woofer or a broken wire inside the speaker.

Active subwoofer "Crown" does not work

The Crown brand produces both automotive active low-frequency systems and household devices intended for personal computers. The Crown car active subwoofer is distinguished by its barrel-shaped body. How to check the subwoofer if it stops working. The design of sound devices is practically no different from each other, so detection and localization of faults is carried out according to general rules. If the built-in power supply fails, the power-on indicator light will not work. In any case, the active column will need to be opened to visually identify possible burnt radioelements.

The subwoofer turns on, but does not work, and a low-frequency hum is heard in the loudspeaker, the volume of which changes when the “Gain” knob is turned. This means that the low frequency channel is working, but there is no input signal from the external device. You can check the sound system by applying an audio signal from any source to the input connector.

Via AUX, Bluetooth or USB

This is what an interface audio cable looks like - AUX RCA

Subwoofer doesn't work

We check: 1. whether the sub is accurately connected to the SUBWOOFER PRE OUT connector of the receiver, and in the sub - to LFE Line in (by the way, there is no need to connect with a Y-cable) 2. the level of the sub in the receiver's speaker settings - menu B)SPEAKER LEVEL, and so on the same Hz value in the CROSSOVER menu 3. controls for the subwoofer itself - level and crossover in what positions?

The test signal (noise) should be audible if the receiver's subwoofer is turned on (in the A)SPEAKER SET menu). Well, judging by the fact that the sub reacts somehow at all - it is apparently turned on. And the BOTH mode would hardly have worked.

Regarding the following: The system is connected to the computer, in films I get 3/2/0 sound, although I set the codec settings to 5.1.

I can say that nothing is clear yet: in the settings of which codec do you set to 5.1? How is the PC connected to the receiver? How to watch a video (soft player).

With the receiver radio, it’s the same thing, the sub doesn’t plow, the indication of the received signal on the res display shows R and L.

What should be there if the signal is 2.0?

Thanks for such a quick response! 1. The sub is connected to pre out, yes 2. Speaker level is in the middle (tried maximum), crossover 80Hz 3. less than half

The noise is only audible on the speakers, the sub is silent

Codec AC3, I use Windows Media Classic

About the radio: because I don’t understand this very well, but shouldn’t the res still send some kind of signal to the sub when receiving the radio?

Of all the subwoofer's reactions to the outside world, this is a burning green light, which, however, goes out if there is no signal from the subwoofer.

DSP level is 0, but I tried different ones.

What confuses me most is the lack of sound in the speaker volume adjustment menu, here, in theory, everything is already wired up from the beginning and crooked hands have nothing to do with it.

The receiver will broadcast the radio to 5.1 if you turn on any of the matrix decoders (DPL, DTS Neo:6, etc.), or when you turn on its own DSP modes.

3. less than half

Is less than half a level or a crossover? Make the level closer to the maximum, try it, open the crossover wider (around 80Hz, or even wider - up to 100). By the way, do you happen to have a wireless connection option there?

The situation appears a little strange if we assume that the settings are more or less correct and the connection is error-free. To check who is fooling (because there are at least two options - either a subwoofer or a receiver), connect the subwoofer directly to any signal source (any device with a line output - the same PC audio card, CDDVD player, if you don’t have one - yes, even a video camera, a camera with a TV-out, or the TV itself, or an MP3 player in general - i.e. any source). If the sub works as it should, we look for a rake in the receiver (first we do a general reset to factory settings), but if the sub doesn’t work from other sources, well, either turn the knobs on it (the level is basically, the crossover can be in the region from 80 to 120), or contact the store. I think there is no point in checking the cable if, in principle, the sub reacts.

I connected it to TV audio out L, the result is the same, I also tried plugging it into an amplifier for PC speakers (I don’t have it in the sub, but as a separate unit), reset the res settings, all to no avail, apparently the sub was dead from the very beginning, just like that and buy in technosila.

Rustam, on my receiver there is 1 output for a subwoofer, which is why connection Y was chosen, on the subwoofer there are 2 inputs, left (LFE) and right. Tried all possible connection options

Mdemon Level knob on subwoofer to max. twisted it? Nothing? Well, my condolences, it happens.

Rustam Miftakhov If the sub is connected from the pre-out of the receiver, you need to connect it with a 2RCA-2RCA cable (regular stereo tulip) to the subwoofer inputs.

Well, in general, on receivers, “pre-outs for the subwoofer” are represented by a single RCA connector (aka LFE output with a mix of all bass management post-processing).

But about high-amplitude connection - it’s good, of course, to try, but only for the sake of experimentation, because if a person needs a subwoofer in a movie, this option will not completely suit him.

Methods for troubleshooting car amplifiers - Audio engineering - Catalog of articles

Check all power wiring:

correct connection and switching;
reliability and cleanliness of contacts (do not be lazy to check each one);
serviceability (integrity) of the fuse;
correct grounding.

If you have several amplifiers and the minus is not from the battery, then they must be grounded at one point. Check whether the amplifier body is in contact with the car body. The control wire should not be powered from a constant plus; it must be connected to the corresponding pin of the radio. If the problem does not go away or the causes are not found, then try connecting a temporary negative wire to the battery to check.

Often it is for these reasons that the subwoofer slams.

Simultaneous activation of the radio and amplifier

Most amplifiers have protection against transient processes; when turned on, there is a delay; perhaps many have noticed that the amplifier turns on a little later than the radio. So we need to check this algorithm. To do this, disconnect the control wire (remote) from the amplifier without disconnecting the signal wires, then turn on the radio, and after a while (5-10 seconds) connect the control wire manually. If there is no pop, then perhaps the capacitor that determines the delay time for turning on the amplifier has partially lost its capacity. This is an amplifier repair, but a fairly simple one.

Radio not turned off

Very rarely, but this has also happened - if you do not turn off the receiver with the button, then when you turn the key, the previously “not turned off” radio immediately turns on, then starting the engine turns it off, but the amplifiers remain in operation. When the radio returns to its original state, after the engine starts, transient processes appear in the form of clicks or pops in the system.

A simple solution is to first start the car, and then turn on the radio, continuing to look for the cause either in the control unit or in the amplifiers.

The monoblock goes into defense, the headlights blink

The sadness is strong, guys!!!! In short, I installed music today for my son in a Kia Rio 4 Alpine head, front speakers dd cs 6.5, ITON everything is noisy. Installed in a service that specializes in music. Set up I started the car - I didn’t like the bass from the subwoofer at the level of tuning on the radio - maximum 15 units - the sub could barely breathe, I didn’t even notice the normal movement of the subwoofer speaker, and this is with a VT bridge????

The most detailed description: do-it-yourself car amplifier repair from a professional technician for your readers with photos and videos from all corners of the web on one resource. Repairing a car audio amplifier - repairing a car amplifier for a person familiar with radio-electronic devices is not something difficult or impossible.

Troubleshooting before car amplifier repair

Before you start work, you need to find out what is broken. Only by determining which part caused the system to stop can it be restored. The electrical circuit will not work if there is no contact, the connection is not in the place where it is intended.

To detect a malfunction caused by a lack of sound, diagnostics begin with a frequency amplifier. To get acquainted with the circuit you will have to remove the cover. Using a magnifying glass, examine the components. If a capacitor or track is burnt out, the wiring does not hold, this is quite clearly visible. It also happens that the problem is not visible here.

Mystery MK 2.80 amplifier goes into defense

Enter or register. Clippu Net is a club for those who are passionate about building acoustic systems. Registration: Guys, good day to everyone. For the first time in my life I registered on the forum for the sake of the opinion of experts because surfing the sites and asking someone I know doesn’t lead to anything concrete.. Now I’ve added a sub to all this.

And now closer to the problem: when I make the bass booster on the amplifier more and there are only three positions Bd 0,6,12, some unpleasant sounds begin in the subwoofer.

That is, it doesn’t make noise, but it’s like “the packet is shuffling” something like that. You do GUN or the bass booster plays well less, but damn I don’t have enough volume. From here I have a question, how can I fix this??

Low Power Amplifiers

I spent a long time deciding which amplifier to use for low-power speaker systems. As a cheap option, I first decided to use TDA2030 microcircuits, then I thought that 18 watts per channel was not enough and switched to the TDA2050 - a more powerful analogue at 32 watts. Then, after comparing the sound of the main options, the choice fell on my favorite microcircuit - LM1875, 24 watts and the sound quality is 2-3 orders of magnitude better than that of the first two microcircuits.

I scoured the net for a long time, but I still couldn’t find a printed circuit board that suited my needs. Sitting at the computer for several hours, we created our own version for a five-channel amplifier on LM1875 chips, the board turned out to be quite compact, the board also includes a block of rectifiers and filters. This unit was completely assembled in 2 hours - all components were available by that time.

Subwoofer doesn't work

Regarding the following: The system is connected to the computer, in films I get 3/2/0 sound, although I set the codec settings to 5.1.

I can say that nothing is clear yet: in the settings of which codec do you set to 5.1? How is the PC connected to the receiver? How to watch a video (soft player).

With the receiver radio, it’s the same thing, the sub doesn’t plow, the indication of the received signal on the res display shows R and L.

What should be there if the signal is 2.0?

Thanks for such a quick response! 1. The sub is connected to pre out, yes 2. Speaker level is in the middle (tried maximum), crossover 80Hz 3. less than half

The noise is only audible on the speakers, the sub is silent

Codec AC3, I use Windows Media Classic

About the radio: because I don’t understand this very well, but shouldn’t the res still send some kind of signal to the sub when receiving the radio?

Of all the subwoofer's reactions to the outside world, this is a burning green light, which, however, goes out if there is no signal from the subwoofer.

DSP level is 0, but I tried different ones.

What confuses me most is the lack of sound in the speaker volume adjustment menu, here, in theory, everything is already wired up from the beginning and crooked hands have nothing to do with it.

To the receiver

In the case of a multi-channel amplifier-receiver, the methods described above will be useless, since you need to connect a low-frequency speaker following the instructions for each specific device.

When connecting a subwoofer, it is necessary that it operates in parallel with the front (front pair of speakers). Thus, the subwoofer will cut off the “lows”, which will make the work of the front pair of the playback device easier. Also, in the receiver settings you can completely specify that the subwoofer is not connected. In this case, LFE will be sent to the front speakers.

Communities › Car audio › Forum › sub doesn’t work, what’s the reason

people, what kind of nonsense is the sub in the last few days, it works, then it turns off on its own. I took it apart and looked at the wire that goes to the diffuser, moved away a little, I pressed it, the sub started working. So I glued this wire (glue monolith for a second) turned on the radio and it doesn’t want to work, what’s the reason Is it really because of the glue that current is not passing through?

Is glue a conductor?

the wire that is adjacent to the diffuser has fallen behind) so the diffuser seems to me to be paper, right?

That wire most likely not only fell behind, but also broke off

funny))) the post was repeated, now it’s not a BABBUFFER, but just a sub.

Phahaha, well, you are a comedian. Is it okay that the leads, one of which came off from you, go to the coil, which is attached to your paper diffuser? The supply wire goes to the coil output, the joint can be an aluminum or copper bracket, or there are no leads and this is the coil wire. It's worse here. Either post a photo, or at least describe what it looks like and where exactly the wire broke. And yes, such things cannot be fixed with glue.

photo is not posted here

yes, I already looked in the blog)

Ok, I found the photo. If it didn’t break at the terminal, then I sympathize with you. You will have to separate the basket from the magnet

Are you stunned or what? a magnet basket... can you recommend it? The diffuser comes off, followed by the center washer, only after all the manipulations. heh, a basket from a magnet...)))

Smart guy, it's easier to center the speaker when connecting the basket to the magnet than to center the cone and washer. And access to the coil will be either way. Is your head not working rationally?

When you decide to say nonsense, think for a minute, suddenly they will laugh, magnet separator)))). The fact that you once accidentally separated a magnet from 0.25 GDS, stupidly dropping it on the floor, does not give reason to be sure that the rest of the speakers can be disassembled just as easily. How interesting is it that you propose to separate it?

The magnetic system is attached either with bolts or glue. In the first case, unscrew it. Secondly, “drive” a screwdriver or other flat hard object into the gap. And FYI, the 0.25 watt speaker is too small to break if dropped. The mass is tiny. It's time to learn physics. After such clever phrases, you don’t have to write anything to me anymore, you won’t argue another bullshit, and I won’t mentally curse you

You shouldn't have mentioned physics. Study the properties of magnets when exposed to impacts and temperature, etc., start with this and you will understand that with each impact your magnet becomes weaker and the magnetic field becomes smaller, and this is a very critical indicator for a speaker. As for cursing, it seems to me that such things as curses and insults are resorted to by people who simply have no arguments left to prove their position. I wouldn’t throw around such words, the earth is round, it will come back! Well, I would admit, Well, I shit myself a little, it doesn’t happen to anyone, they’re all their own )))))

Okay, here I went too far with causticity. I apologize for this) as if I’m not sitting here to create conflicts. I understand perfectly well that it is much easier to separate the soft suspension and the soft washer, but he simply cannot put them in place. Connecting two centered solid parts is another matter. This is how I assembled my sub on my knees after the accident. There is a blog entry. Even if it’s not beautiful, I, having never done anything like this before, did it without much difficulty. Everything is holding tight. The other day I collected another 75gdn with exactly the same problem - a broken coil wire. Fortunately, there are bolts and it was even easier to assemble it into place.

Lan, it counts)) + 10 to karma), don’t be offended either. I speak with such confidence about classical repair methods, since I have been doing these repairs for 5 years. I rewound the speakers and re-glued the mountain. By the way, at the dawn of my youth I also resorted to the method that you described, great luck if it comes unstuck exactly where it is needed, and not a ferrite ring from the magnetic circuit is in 100 percent of cases a screw-up, crap with alignment is guaranteed. Even if it comes off where necessary, the coil ring is damaged and you have to straighten it later, also for replacement. WORLD)

Who told you such nonsense? It is better not to touch the magnetic system - this is a grave mistake. Should you attach the link or will you find out why yourself?

Messages 14

1 Topic from Alexey_Evgenievich 2011-04-22 10:05:12

Alexey_Evgenievich
Newbie
Inactive

Registered: 2011-04-22
Messages: 8

Topic: Subwoofer not working in 5.1 system

Good day everyone! I need help. I have a 5.1 system. Creative. Motherboard: asus p5e, windows 7, installed SounMax, 5 speakers work, but no subwoofer. Maybe the connector for the seven should be inserted differently, not like sauna max shows, or something else? In the test, it passes off as a sub-center speaker High Definition Audio Codec name Analog Devices AD1988B Codec ID 11D4198Bh / 1043829Ch Codec version 00100400h Codec type Audio Supported audio 8 kHz, 11 kHz, 16 kHz, 22 kHz, 32 kHz, 44 kHz, 4 8 kHz, 88 kHz, 96 kHz, 176 kHz, 192 kHz, 16 bpm, 20 bpm, 24 bpm

2 Reply from feeze 2011-04-22 10:42:12

feeze
Moderator
Inactive

From: Perm region, Gubakha
Registered: 2010-04-29
Messages: 578

Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

Well, let's start with this: 1. Why create 2 topics for one question? 2. 7 5.1 does not work on standard wood. 3. Try setting up the player on which you play files. Much depends on the player. 4. Try to “poke” the plug into other sockets to see if they fit. (I assume this is how anal sex was invented)

3 Reply from Alexey_Evgenievich 2011-04-22 11:00:58

Alexey_Evgenievich
Newbie
Inactive

Registered: 2011-04-22
Messages: 8

Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

Well, let's start with this: 1. Why create 2 topics for one question? 2. 7 5.1 does not work on standard wood. 3. Try setting up the player on which you play files. Much depends on the player. 4. Try to “poke” the plug into other sockets to see if they fit. (I assume this is how anal sex was invented)

1. I didn’t create two topics. I just left a message in the first topic. 2. Installed SoundMax for seven. 3. So it should still produce sound in the test, but there is nothing from the subwoofer. 4.I'll try

4 Reply from feeze 2011-04-22 11:21:00

feeze
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From: Perm region, Gubakha
Registered: 2010-04-29
Messages: 578

Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

There are other options: 1. Set it to 5.1 not in the standard settings, but in the program from the sound card itself. (you didn’t write where you set it up) 2. You need to go to “Control PanelHardware and Sound” “speakers” – “configure”, select “Surround Sound 5.1” - always press next, after that!: “Control PanelHardware and Sound” “speakers” – “properties”, “Additional features”, check the box for “Surround sound emulation”! That's all! 3. Download codecs for the “seven”. Download

5 Reply from Alexey_Evgenievich 2011-04-22 16:37:03 (2011-04-22 17:08:56 edited by Alexey_Evgenievich)

Alexey_Evgenievich
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Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

I tried everything.. The sub is silent like a fish..

I looked! The connectors from the subwoofer are FRONT-green, REAR-black, Center/SUBWODFER-orange, connected to the computer connectors. According to the inscriptions on the computer itself on the back of the board. When connected, SOUNDMAX displays information about which connector is currently connected to, and the description matches, but in reality the sub is silent... But it works, we tried it on another computer.

6 Reply from [email protected] 2011-04-22 17:43:25

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Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

7 Reply from Alexey_Evgenievich 2011-04-22 19:18:06

Alexey_Evgenievich
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Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

The forum will not show such a large picture, only a link.

8 Reply from Alexey_Evgenievich 2011-04-23 11:20:17

Alexey_Evgenievich
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Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

Well, why don’t we check the box and save the settings (although everything is in theory, I have a different system)

And look in: The last tab of the Speaker properties - additional options - you need to check the box for surround sound emulation

9 Reply from feeze 2011-04-23 12:00:12

feeze
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From: Perm region, Gubakha
Registered: 2010-04-29
Messages: 578

Subwoofer in car doesn't work

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More instructions on this topic:

Communities › Car audio › Forum › sub doesn’t work, what’s the reason

Messages 14

1 Topic from Alexey_Evgenievich 2011-04-22 10:05:12

Topic: Subwoofer not working in 5.1 system

2 Reply from feeze 2011-04-22 10:42:12

Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

3 Reply from Alexey_Evgenievich 2011-04-22 11:00:58

Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

4 Reply from feeze 2011-04-22 11:21:00

Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

5 Reply from Alexey_Evgenievich 2011-04-22 16:37:03 (2011-04-22 17:08:56 edited by Alexey_Evgenievich)

Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

6 Reply from [email protected] 2011-04-22 17:43:25

Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

7 Reply from Alexey_Evgenievich 2011-04-22 19:18:06

Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

8 Reply from Alexey_Evgenievich 2011-04-23 11:20:17

Re: Subwoofer does not work in 5.1 system

9 Reply from feeze 2011-04-23 12:00:12