If you are just starting your journey in car audio, then most likely you don’t have much money to buy equipment. Today we will continue the series of articles about budget amplifiers and after reviewing 2-channel amplifiers, we will look at budget 4-channel amplifiers.
For the convenience of all readers, we will only look at amplifiers from electronics stores, because not all cities have specialized car audio stores.
Brief top
| Place | Model | Price | |
| 1 | ACV LX-4.100 | from 5,800 rub. | Look |
| 2 | SWAT M-4.100 | from 5,500 rub. | Look |
| 3 | Kicx SP 4.80AB | from 4,500 rub. | Look |
| 4 | Ural BV 4.70 | from 4,700 rub. | |
| 5 | SWAT M-4.65 | from 4,270 rub. | |
| 6 | ACV LX-4.60 | from 3,600 rub. |
Radio amplifier circuit, amplifier circuit for subwoofer and others
DIY 60W sound amplifier
DIY 60W sound amplifier
While there is some time, another brand new circuit appears on the site, we all know that the greater the power of the amplifier, the more expensive it is. But what can you do if you need an amplifier that is both powerful and at the same time not too expensive?
I would like to present to many a familiar circuit of a 25 or 60 watt permanent amplifier, the cost of which is pennies. As already mentioned, the power of the amplifier depends on the supply voltage and resistor values (60-watt values are indicated in parentheses).
ACV LX-4.60 – from 3,600 rub.
| Characteristic | Index |
| Power per channel (4 ohms) | 60 W |
| Power per channel (2 ohms) | 80 W |
| Harmonic distortion | 0.15 % |
| Signal to noise ratio | 96 dB |
| Max. fuse current | 40 A |
| Filters | HF, LF |
Not a bad option for the very beginning. VX at 4 ohms of resistance produces 60 W per channel. With a bridge connection, 160 W will be output, which is enough for a simple subwoofer. There is Bass Boost, a favorite for beginners, and two 20-amp fuses will save you from high voltage. You will also be pleased with the range of settings.
In reality, the “US” gives out its characteristics, but at the maximum 60 W it starts to get a little warm. You don’t need to give it a lot of power, but if it burns out, there will always be spare parts.
Amplifier based on TDA1562Q chip 70W
12/08/2014 | DIY, Electro | 1 | Kirill
As a child, I assembled an interesting amplifier on the TDA1562Q; it was interesting due to its minimal set of parts, simplicity and good performance, as well as high output power. The 70W power declared by the manufacturer is not RMS, i.e.
This power cannot be supplied constantly, only at peak moments.
This is due to the fact that the voltage on the microcircuit is pumped up by high-capacity capacitors, thanks to which the TDA1562Q amplifier is capable of increasing the power in situ than similar amplifiers without capacitor pumping.
The amplifier on the TDA1562Q was assembled specifically for a homemade subwoofer, the heart of which was a 10″ (inch) Sony Xplod low-frequency head, despite the overestimated speaker power declared by the manufacturer, the TDA1562Q microcircuits pumped it VERY well, so much so that in a 10 m² room, it pumped bass and chest and cabinets.
The subwoofer died in a fire, but the amplifier was left, torn apart in search of the necessary parts. And now, I decided to bring it back to life and repeat the successful experience of assembling Basszilla.
Let's go back to restoring the amplifier on the TDA1562Q :
The connection circuit and printed circuit board are borrowed from the NM2034 kit for assembling a LF amplifier 70W, mono (TDA1562Q, auto)
I didn't want to invent a wheel.
— Nesterov Kirill
The ratings of electronic components are given in the table:
| Position | Name | Note | Col. |
| C1 | 0.47uF/63V | Type K73-17 | 1 |
| S2, NW | ODmkF or 0.22 μF | Type K73-44 (film) (code 104 or 224) | 2 |
| C4 | 10uF/25…50V | 1 | |
| C5, C6 | 4700uF/25V | 0 17 | 2 |
| C7 | ODmkF | (104) | 1 |
| C8 | 2200uF/25V | 1 | |
| DA1 | TDA1562 | 1 | |
| HL1 | LED, red. 03 mm | 1 | |
| HL2 | LED, green, 03 mm | 1 | |
| R1 | 1 OkOhm | Trimmer resistor | 1 |
| R2, R4 | 1 OkOhm | Brown, black, orange | 2 |
| R3 | 1 OOOhm or 91 kOhm | Brown, black, yellow or white, brown, orange | 1 |
| R5 | 1kOhm | Brown, black, red | 1 |
| R 6 | 820 Ohm | Grey, red, brown | 1 |
| VD1 | Zeiiner 2V7 | Zener diode 2.7 V 1/2W | 1 |
| VT1 | BC558 | Possible replacement for BC557 | 1 |
| VT2 | BC547 | Possible replacement for BC548 | 1 |
| PLS-40 | 2 pins3 pins | 2 2 | |
| Removable jumper | 1 | ||
| A2034 | PCB 67×37 | 1 |
There are many printed circuit boards for TDA1562Q amplifiers on the Internet, but I liked this one due to the presence of LED overload indication and convenient arrangement of parts. The amplifier is good for a beginner, easy to assemble and does not require any settings other than a variable resistor.
SWAT M-4.65 – from 4,270 rub.
| Characteristic | Index |
| Power per channel (4 ohms) | 65 W |
| Power per channel (2 ohms) | 100 W |
| Harmonic distortion | 0.1 % |
| Signal to noise ratio | 95 dB |
| Max. fuse current | 40 A |
| Filters | HF, LF |
SWAT makes some pretty good products. As you understand from the name, 65 W are output here per channel. When connected by a bridge, 200 W will be given to the subwoofer. There are also 2 20-amp fuses, but it will keep its characteristics.
All adjustments are present, there is a Bass Boost setting from 0 to 12 dB and LPF, HPF switches. No particular problems were noticed with it; like everything else, it can go into defense at high power. One of the disadvantages is that the terminals are small, where you cannot connect a wire of normal cross-section; on the other hand, this device is not for serious audio systems.
Block diagram of the TDA1557Q chip
Dimensions TDA1557Q
Typical connection diagram TDA1557Q
Schematic diagram of switching on TDA1557 with switch-on delay
A delay chain of 100kOhm, 1kOhm resistors and a 100.0x16V capacitor turn on the amplifier with a delay to eliminate clicks in speaker systems.
Typical wiring diagram TDA1557
Amplifier PCB
DIY simple amplifier based on TDA1558Q
Ural BV 4.70 – from 4,700 rub.
| Characteristic | Index |
| Power per channel (4 ohms) | 70 W |
| Power per channel (2 ohms) | 120 W |
| Harmonic distortion | 0.05 % |
| Signal to noise ratio | 100 dB |
| Max. fuse current | 40 A |
| Filters | HF, LF |
This is a fairly well-known Russian manufacturer. The amplifier already delivers 70 W to one channel - you can connect good speakers. When connected with a bridge, the “us” delivers the same 200 W as the previous one. The manufacturer has added all the necessary adjustments in fairly wide ranges with a bandpass filter.
The device itself is small, which is a plus, because if you want to fit a second one. There are two control outputs, just for connecting a second amplifier.
In reality, the device gets quite hot and turns off for some. It cannot be constantly given high power. Its direct purpose is to make high-quality music, and not maximum bass.
Five conclusions about car amplifiers
So, let me summarize. If you've seriously decided to upgrade your stock audio system, a new amplifier is definitely needed. This time.
Decide on the source. If this is a standard GU from which it is impossible to output a linear or “digital” signal, then you will need to either convert the high-level signal to linear with a separate device, or select an amplifier with high-level inputs. Or, if the standard system has band-pass amplification and signal correction, you will have to “restore” the original signal with the processor. That's two.
Any car amplifier has additional equipment - from simple low-pass and high-pass filters that allow you to separate speaker systems and a subwoofer, to the same advanced processors built into the amplifiers themselves. Make your choice depending on the tasks at hand. That's three.
Decide on the type of installation. If this is “for show”, then there are practically no restrictions. If the installation is hidden, then it makes sense to give preference to compact D-class amplifiers. That's four.
Finally, pay due attention to nutrition. High-quality power supply is the key to normal operation of the amplifier. It's five.
Kicx SP 4.80AB – from 4,500 rub.
| Characteristic | Index |
| Power per channel (4 ohms) | 80 W |
| Power per channel (2 ohms) | 120 W |
| Harmonic distortion | 0.01 % |
| Signal to noise ratio | 88 dB |
| Max. fuse current | 60 A |
| Filters | HF, LF |
An excellent device for good entry-level bass or a high-quality audio system. The 4-channel amplifier produces 80 W per channel, and when connected with a bridge it delivers an impressive 240 W. This is enough to rock budget subwoofers.
The adjustments are the same as all others with a maximum range from 50 hertz to 5 kilohertz, although the previous one was adjustable up to 8 kilohertz.
It handles a good initial audio system with four speakers and one 12-inch subwoofer without any problems. If you strain him too much, he will of course go into defense, but he can hold even maximum power for some time.
Size matters: even D-class varies
But we digress, let's get back to the amplifiers. If some five to seven years ago the AB class had unquestioned authority, today D-class car amplifiers in many cases look preferable.
Firstly, compactness. At home, an amplifier the size of a nightstand, although it looks bulky, still does not cause such serious problems. In a car, a difference in body length of just 5 cm can be decisive. Not everyone today wants to display audio system components and spend a lot of money on installation. And the compact D-class allows you to make the installation hidden. The ability to fit an amplifier, say, under a seat or under a dashboard seems quite attractive.
Despite their compactness, some car amplifiers based on modern D-class chips have quite mature output power levels and very decent sound
Secondly, energy efficiency. Again, compared to home appliances, this issue is especially acute in a car. Especially with the increase in the number of electric vehicles and hybrids. Using more than half of the energy consumed as heat, you will agree, is not the most rational way to spend it. However, it’s still not worth hiding such amplifiers completely under the upholstery; the heat dissipation, although not the same as that of the AB class, is still not zero. At least some kind of air exchange should be provided.
The new generation of amplifiers makes full use of D-class chips with efficiency above 95%
Well, the third argument in favor of the D-class is, strange as it may seem to many, the sound quality. I’m not taking into account expensive high-end amplifiers now, the situation is different there. But in a moderate price category at comparable prices, the AB-class most often really loses to the modern D-class. Five years ago this would have been a controversial statement, but with the advent of new chips operating at carrier frequencies of half a megahertz, this is already a fact.
SWAT M-4.100 – from 5,500 rub.
| Characteristic | Index |
| Power per channel (4 ohms) | 100 W |
| Power per channel (2 ohms) | 135 W |
| Harmonic distortion | 0.01 % |
| Signal to noise ratio | 95 dB |
| Filters | HF, LF |
Another representative of the SWAT company in our top. You can find it at this price, but most people sell it for more than 6 thousand rubles. With such a device you can connect “evil” audio systems, because an impressive 100 W are delivered to one channel.
To connect the subwoofer, a bridge connection is used, delivering 260 W. Cheap subs will burn out, so don't turn up the Gain to maximum. You also have plenty of ways to cut frequencies and customize your audio system.
Conclusion: SWAT M-4.100 is an excellent option for growth. Place it on a simple audio system, and when you want to buy more powerful speakers and subs, you don’t have to buy a new amplifier, because this will be enough.
Which amplifier is better to put in the car?
Which amplifier is better to put in the car?
To understand which amplifier is best to put in a car, you need to understand their classes, types and main characteristics at least at an initial level. Not only the parameters of the amplifier itself are important, but also their compatibility with the existing acoustics and head unit (radio tape recorder).
However, with a good amplifier you can change the speakers.
