Speaker cable for speakers: how to choose the wire cross-section for connecting speakers?

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Acoustic cable

Buying an acoustic cable for speakers is not as easy as it seems at first glance. After all, there is a large selection of such products in the assortment, and before you go to the store with the desire to purchase a cable, you should be guided by your budget. In addition, you need to know which one is better to buy. The speaker cable for speakers is selected in accordance with the manufacturer of the device, its model, power and other parameters. However, many car enthusiasts do not pay much attention to this, believing that any cable will do. But choosing it is not an easy matter, so this process must be taken seriously.

Which wires are best to use for car speakers?

Most car enthusiasts do not know what wires are needed for speakers, although the principle of choice is quite simple. All cables that are used in a car to connect audio equipment are divided into three groups:

• Power
• Interblock
• Acoustic

Power cables are designed to supply power from the car battery to the amplifier, since the music center is already connected by standard cabling. In order to determine the cross-section of the power wire, it is enough to calculate the total power of the sound system and divide this value by the voltage of the vehicle's on-board network in accordance with the formula I=P/U. The result is the current consumed.

For an amplifier with 4 channels of 40 watts each, this value will be equal to 24 amperes. 40*4*2=24. You need to multiply by two, since 40 watts is the rated power. Next, you need to take into account the distance from the battery to the amplifier. With a cable length of 3-4 meters, its cross-section should be at least 8.0 mm2. Interconnect cables come in two types. This is a twisted pair wire or coaxial cable with a central core and metal braid. The best results will be obtained using double-shielded copper coaxial cable. Very important elements of the sound system are the wires running from the amplifier to the speakers.

Types of cables

Today the market is full of “interconnect” wires of different colors, and the price will also satisfy everyone:

• Here everything depends not so much on the quality, but on the manufacturer’s brand (fame and reputation)
• We don’t need Super elite wires in gold-plated packages with velvet lining, so we’ll focus on affordable models

Interblock connectors are divided into two large categories:

• The first category, focused on the transmission of analog signals (“interconnectors” or “analog” wires)
• The second category is intended for transmitting exclusively digital data; for simplicity, they are called “digital” cables

"Analog" wires

Example of wires for analog signals

This type of interconnects is designed to transmit low-current signals coming from a source to devices for processing it, an amplifier, a switch, and others:

• To ensure such a connection, a shielded audio wire is usually used, which is arranged according to the coaxial arrangement of its conductors - the central conductor will be protected from extraneous interference by a screen, which is usually made of a large number of thin metal veins
• This design allows you to avoid interference from electrical appliances located nearby and allows you to conduct a low-current signal with minimal losses
• When connecting such wires, convenient RCA connectors are used (popularly called “tulips” or “bells”)
• They are the most common in household appliances today.
• As a rule, the term “interconnect cable” means a connector that consists of two wires and 4 RCA connectors (in simpler terms, a “2-tulip to 2-tulip” wire), which is capable of transmitting signals from two channels of one component of your system to another

Digital type is divided into two types:

• Wires designed to transmit a digital signal in the form of electric current (colloquially they are called “digital coaxials”)
• The second type transmits a digital signal in the form of light (these are “optical” cables, also known as fiber optics)

Let's start in order:

• This wire is no different in appearance from the “analog” interconnect
• The difference is that it does not have a second connector
• “Digital coaxial” consists of only one wire at the ends with connectors (the connectors are usually RCA)
• Simply put, the cable turns out to be “1 tulip - 1 tulip”
• It is manufactured using a coaxial circuit (hence the name), but unlike the “analog” one, the “digital coaxial” must have a characteristic impedance of 75 Ohm
• It is desirable that its connectors have a characteristic impedance of 75 Ohm, however, this is not a necessary condition; it is usually fulfilled only in the manufacture of expensive “household” and all professional wires

Let's move on to fiber optic cables:

• The digital signal is transmitted through flexible optical fiber in the form of light.
• The fiber is made from a special polymer (used in inexpensive wires of the average price and quality category)
• Made from specially designed flexible glass (such cables are more expensive)

Optical wires have several advantages over electrical "coaxials":

• "Optics" is capable of transmitting a large amount of digital information
• Plus, optical fiber allows for ground isolation between the two components (which is important for connecting the computer system unit to the receiver)
• However, high-quality optical wire is very expensive, and its cheap implementation and data transmission scheme in budget equipment do not allow you to enjoy the benefits of “optics”
• Therefore, you should not overpay for a “digital” wire; it is better to pay attention to “digital coaxial”
• If we compare middle-class digital and coaxial components, there will be no fundamental difference in sound
• Most likely you will not hear the difference between “coaxial” and “optics”
• Of course, connect anything, it’s worth remembering that “coaxial” is always cheaper than similar “optics”

Maximum cable length

Some wires have a maximum length:

• Optical cable length - maximum 7 meters
• “Electrical coaxial” has no restrictions, since everything depends on the quality of the wire itself
• If you use a good quality wire, digital data can be transmitted without problems over 10-15 meters or even more

Which one to choose for your equipment

Everything is very simple here:

• Go to any audio equipment store, borrow several of the most suitable interconnects as collateral and compare their sound with the use of your system
• Exactly in your room and with your system
• Then you will have an accurate idea of ​​the “sound quality” of each wire

Wires for car speakers

Wires for car audio speakers are selected according to several parameters. This is the conductor material, insulation type and cross-section. Speaker cables are made from several types of materials:

• Silver
• Copper
• Aluminum

In terms of the quality of transmission of an alternating audio frequency signal, a connecting cable made of pure silver is the undisputed leader. It has minimal resistance, does not oxidize and does not introduce significant distortion. It is rarely used in cars due to its high price. Cables made of copper coated with a thin layer of silver give good sound, with a slight increase in high frequencies. Pure oxygen-free copper is the main material for connecting cables to speaker systems. These wires are used most often. Wires for connecting aluminum speakers have higher resistance, which affects the quality of signal transmission. In addition, aluminum oxidizes faster and is more brittle, which can make it difficult to install inside the car. Copper-coated aluminum cables are somewhat better in quality, but in any case worse than copper wires.

Connecting the speakers

Installing speakers to the radio is an important point. To prevent mistakes, during the repair process there should be a speaker connection diagram nearby, which marks all the points of correct installation. When connecting the front or rear speakers, pay attention to the markings on them, thanks to which you can find the positive and negative terminals. Manufacturers usually make the positive output wide and the negative output narrow.

If you accidentally decide to connect your speakers incorrectly, it can result in a large loss of quality, up to 80%. First, this will damage the speakers, and then the audio system will also fail. If there are no markings on the speakers, during installation you can first connect one element, and then activate the audio system at full power. Then the next element is connected, if after connecting the sound increases, then you are on the right track, you can continue. But if the sound remains at the same level, this means that an error was made in the process.

Important! You cannot connect speakers in parallel, because all radios are designed for 4 ohms resistance, and if you connect approximately 2 ohms in parallel, there will be almost a short circuit. With this connection, the radio amplifier will fail faster.

Wiring selection

The wires for the speakers or loudspeaker are marked - there can be 2 or 4 pairs. If the wire is a single color, it is positive; if it has a black stripe, it is negative. A single color must be connected to the wide terminal of the speaker, and with a strip - to a narrow one. The negative wire can be common to the side or front speakers (up to 20 W). If the speaker system is more powerful, each channel should have its own negative and positive wires. These cables cannot be swapped or connected to the car body, that is, grounded, as this will lead to a deterioration in sound quality.

Low-power devices may be equipped with four colored cables, but may not have a striped wire. If this is the case, then the negative terminal of the speakers is connected to the negative terminal of the car radio. If you make a mistake, it can not only lead to poor sound quality, but also short circuits in the wiring, which can lead to a fire. Most radio tape recorders are supplied with connecting cables, but experts recommend using them only for testing, since their cross-section is small. The operation of such wires is relevant if the power of the audio speaker is no more than 20 W; usually the diameter of such speakers is 13 cm.

Insulation Features

If you use high-quality wiring, it will be equipped with good insulation. The insulating background should be silicone; this will prevent the wiring from cracking at sub-zero temperatures. The cable cross-section must correspond to the power of the car radio. Wiring should be installed away from other energy users. Fractures and twisting of cables are not allowed. The wiring should not fray; it should be laid closed - in the door pillars, under the thresholds.

Peculiarities

Today, speaker cables and wires for speakers can be purchased almost anywhere (both on the market and in specialized stores or showrooms). At the same time, almost everyone needs an audio cable for acoustics - both amateur and professional.

Speaker cable is an integral element of Hi-Fi systems.

Moreover, in some cases it can come standard with speakers (then the manufacturer selects the most optimal model that meets all the characteristics of the speakers and combines with them almost perfectly). In other cases, the audio cable will have to be purchased separately.

Overview of species

Today, on the market for audio equipment and related accessories, you can find a wide variety of speaker cables: audio cables, connecting cables, shielded cables, AUX cables, 4-pin cables, and many other options. They must be used strictly for the intended purpose intended by the manufacturer. Let's look at several of the most popular types of speaker cables for speakers.

Copper

The choice of copper cable should be approached with special attention. So, before making a direct purchase of a product, you should make sure that the copper speaker wire has the length necessary for correct functioning. It is believed that long copper wires should have a small diameter (especially if the resistance values ​​are not too high).

In such a situation, the sound quality that will come from the speaker will be at the highest level.

The required volume level will also be ensured.

When choosing a copper cable, it is important to make sure that it has the appropriate markings from the manufacturer, which indicates the company that produced the cable. If there are no such marks, then we can conclude that this product is a fake - accordingly, you should immediately refuse to purchase it, since there are no guarantees regarding the sound quality and the duration of the cable.

Due to the fact that copper cables are the most popular type of product, they are produced in large quantities, and they, in turn, are divided into several independent categories. Therefore, before purchasing, it is important to make sure that you are purchasing the acoustic version - there should be a special mark about this.

Copper cables can be made from either oxygen-free or monocrystalline copper. You should also pay close attention to this factor. In addition, you should give preference to thin wires, as they ensure high quality sound transmitted from the speakers.

There are 3 types of copper from which audio cables are made: TPC, OFC and PSOSS. These varieties differ in sound quality and, accordingly, cost. So, if you want to buy an acoustic cable for speakers made of budget copper, then you should give preference to the TPC type. For oxygen-free systems belonging to the middle class, OFC products are suitable. At the same time, the highest quality cables are those made of pure copper - RSOSS.

Composite

In addition to copper, you can also find composite varieties on the market. Despite the fact that they contain a large percentage of copper, there are also other components.

Thus, a popular variety is the inner part of which is made of copper, and the outer shell is made of some metal alloy.

Combined

Combination cables combine several different materials (both metallic and non-metallic). The most popular and in demand among consumers are cables that combine copper with carbon. One should also take into account the fact that this option has excellent technical characteristics and properties.

Thus, speaker cables for speakers differ primarily in the material of manufacture. When purchasing, you should consider this important fact.

However, speaker cables can be classified not only by the material of manufacture, but also by a number of other characteristics. So, audio cables can be divided into the following types:

• symmetrical (this option consists of 2 stranded conductors that have a special conductive screen - hence the name of the type);

• asymmetrical (this audio cable is used in a variety of areas of life: in household and computer equipment, in musical equipment, etc.);

• parallel (the cable is equipped with 2 stranded conductors insulated from each other);

• The coaxial wire is equipped with a special protective system that helps protect the wires from various types of external interference.

In addition, experts identify a specific type of audio cable called twisted pair.

It is characterized by a large number of different options for interweaving conductors (these conductors can be either monolithic or multi-core). In addition, some individual twisted pair models are equipped with comprehensive shielding. This functional feature significantly improves signal quality.

The whole truth about wires

(to be honest, not quite all, but a lot)

Having regularly visited several audiophile Internet forums where there is active discussion of various components, I have noticed one clear pattern: everyone who actively claims that connecting wires cannot sound different if they are made of the same material never bases their results own experiments. Because they were not carried out. Their argument is “this can’t happen because it can never happen.” And the topic of wire direction is like a red rag to a bull for them. They can’t just pass by like that, they will definitely support with their “+1” those who mock the “confused audiophiles.” But all the defenders of the other camp invariably present the results of their comparative auditions. I consider myself to be in the second camp and am ready to share my experience based on hundreds of comparative auditions and independent design of connecting wires. Namely design, because despite their apparent simplicity, wires are a complex structure, and the following design elements are valid for both speaker cables and interconnects. This is true even for power cables, perhaps with a slight adjustment to the specific application.

Section

One day, while I was installing audio systems in cars, our local electrician, who had worked as a communications operator in Soviet times, came into my installation center. When I saw the 2Ga power cable that we ran into the trunk of the car to connect the amplifier, I was really stunned. His words: “We used this cable to connect radio stations broadcasting halfway around the world.” Since then, I have a saying: you cannot approach such a delicate topic as sound reproduction with Ohm’s law. It would be more accurate to say this: it’s impossible only with Ohm’s law...

I should note that recently, even those starting their journey in car audio understand the need for high-quality power supply for amplifiers. This happened due to the fact that all car audio forums give recommendations on the cross-section of power wires, and stores have kits for connecting amplifiers with wires, although not very thick, but still sufficient. But no one wants to use thick speaker wires. Moreover, if beginners buy what is offered to them in stores, then sound lovers “in the know” simply assume that the wires have a cross-section of 2.5 square meters. mm are quite sufficient for any frontal acoustics, because the power of the speakers is much less than the iron, which is also connected with a 2.5 kW wire. mm. And indeed, if you operate with the only quantity accessible and understandable to the common consumer—power—then you can’t argue with that. However, I undertake to argue and even expect to win this argument (otherwise I would not undertake it). And in my evidence base I will use electrical parameters that are understandable and familiar to a hypothetical electrician who approaches sound reproduction using Ohm’s law. No esotericism, no attacks, like “if you don’t hear this, it means you’re deaf...”

So. The electrodynamic head is essentially an alternating current electric motor that converts an electrical signal into mechanical movements of the diffuser with excitation of sound waves. The more accurately the diffuser repeats the electrical signal of the audio frequency, the more accurately the sound we hear will correspond to its standard, that is, the live sound that was recorded. This is all theoretical and if we do not take into account the distortion of the electronic path. For our current topic, the starting point will be the precision of mechanical vibrations. In fact, the moving part of the dynamic head has some kind of mass, which means it has inertia when oscillating. And in order to accurately control movements, the amplifier must have a damping coefficient (DC) sufficient for this. The term “damping factor” is also often used. A value that not all manufacturers provide in the technical data of their products. It is not difficult to calculate the value of the coefficient; you need to divide the load resistance by the output impedance of the amplifier and get the desired figure. We just need to do this now. I have never seen output resistance in the declared characteristics of amplifiers, and it is not a constant at all, resistance varies with frequency, that is, it is impedance. But for our purposes this is not fundamental, because even if we allow an error of 100%, the conclusions we will come to below will not change. Let's take the average value of the output resistance of a transistor amplifier - 0.02 Ohms, and the load resistance is 4 Ohms. We get a damping coefficient of 200. A very good value, although it can be higher.

Now we can move directly to proving the need to use thick speaker wires. We obtained the required coefficient without taking into account the resistance of the connecting wires, but it is such that taking it into account in this simple formula gives completely different results. After browsing through the websites of cable manufacturers, I found the resistance value of a copper speaker cable with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters. mm - 0.0075 Ohm/m. But this is the resistance of one conductor, and the circuit uses two, so let’s multiply by 2. Typically, amplifiers are located in the trunk of a car, and the average cable length to the front speakers is 4 m. We calculate the resistance of an acoustic cable of this length: 0.0075 x 2 x 4 = 0.06 Ohm, that is, 3 times the output impedance of the amplifier! Taking this into account, the actual damping coefficient becomes equal not to 200, but... we consider: 0.02 + 0.06 = 0.08, 4/0.08 = 50. This is already a small coefficient, and taking into account the fact that modern car speakers have heavy progress, it becomes clear that there can be no talk of any legible reproduction. The speaker cone will "fly past" the stopping point due to inertia, since the amplifier will not be able to control the vibrations due to the high resistance between it and the speaker. Let's try to increase the cross-section of the acoustic wire to 10 square meters. mm and thereby reduce the resistance by 4 times. We get completely different numbers: 0.06/4 = 0.015, and the new value of CD is 114, which is 2.3 times better than in the first case. Now it is clear that the thicker the speaker cable and the shorter it is, the better the sound. This applies not only to the low-frequency range, where a large amplitude of vibrations occurs, but also to mid-range frequencies, which significantly improve intelligibility. Thick wires are quite problematic to install through car doors, but such difficulty is rewarded with high-quality sound. Based on the calculations made, the subwoofer simply needs to be connected with thick wires, and this is much easier to do than running a wire through the door.

From my own experience I will say: the difference in sound between an acoustic wire of 4 sq. mm and the same double - 8 sq. mm is perfectly audible, all you need to do is everyone who wants to make sure of this, take and conduct this simple experiment. In my home system, I connected the speakers with a homemade speaker cable with a cross-section of 40 square meters. mm and have never regretted it.

Conductor material

The most common material for audio wires is copper, it is known. But the quality of copper can be completely different, and we are not able to determine it; this requires expensive instruments and equipment. I only urge you not to believe in the characteristics declared by manufacturers; they often do not correspond to reality, precisely because of the impossibility of verification. You have to take it and listen for yourself. The conductor made of pure silver performed very well - the sound is noble, rich in overtones and aftertones. However, the price of such a cable starts from hundreds of dollars per meter, and this fact greatly limits its use even in expensive systems. A conductor made of silver-plated copper is often found; practice has shown that such a conductor greatly distorts the timbre, the sound is colored, even harsh. This is explained by the fact that the current squeezed out by the skin effect at high frequencies enters a layer of conductor with different characteristics, and some distortion occurs. On sound, this is heard as an “increase in brightness” at mid-high frequencies (for example, brass, cymbals) and a decrease in “air” and the size of the sound stage, “room acoustics” are eaten up. You also come across a conductor made of tinned copper; the sound of such a wire is characterized by a pronounced lisp effect, the sound is downright dirty. At the same time, there are often cases when tinned copper is passed off as a silver-plated conductor.

Insulation material

There are a huge variety of dielectrics that are used as insulating material for audio cables; this is generally a separate topic that can take dozens of pages in length. I will try to briefly describe the frequently used ones. The most common dielectric material for insulating conductors is polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and its variations. This is the same transparent, translucent or completely opaque material that is found on acoustic and power wires sold today for the car audio industry. This dielectric has a charge accumulation effect, so it has a strong and negative effect on the audio signal. Imagine that the main sound signal passed through the conductor, and after it, lagging in time (phase distortion) and with a much smaller, but still significant amplitude, the accumulated signal transmitted by the insulation runs. The sound becomes muddy and inexpressive. Moreover, this effect depends on the length of the cable and increases with increasing length. Over several meters the sound will be much worse than over a short section of cable. In addition, PVC oxidizes copper, especially at the edges of the wire, where there is air access. Polypropylene insulation is not used as often as PVC; it is much better for sound, especially foam. This is the least expensive of the "acoustically correct" isolators. Teflon insulation is already used on expensive audio cables; insulation made from low-density Teflon and foamed Teflon has shown particularly good results. Some manufacturers have even patented several technologies for making insulators from this material.

It was experimentally established that the most sound-neutral insulators are natural materials: cotton, linen, wool, cellulose; they are practically impossible to find in mass-produced products, and only sometimes they are used in expensive and custom-made audio connectors of the highest class. In general, any insulator affects the sound signal, even the second layer, which does not come into contact with the conductor. The speaker wires in the car should be laid as far as possible from the metal of the body; corrugated pipes allow you to “move” the cable both from the body and from the carpets.

Cable design

It would seem that it makes no difference how the conductors are located in the cable, because they are insulated and do not come into contact with each other. In fact, from two completely identical conductors you can make cables that sound completely different. Conductors are twisted at different angles, laid in parallel, spaced at different distances, several conductors are parallelized, flat cross-section conductors are used, a conductor is assembled from conductors of different diameters, and much more. I will not specifically describe each option - there are a huge number of them, which means that there is no single correct design. Conductors spaced further apart make it possible to obtain values ​​of linear capacitance and inductance almost equal to zero - the detail of the sound increases noticeably, but cohesion and musicality are lost. The main task of wire designers, besides, of course, neutrality and broadband, is to obtain the optimal combination of detail/musicality. It is against these three criteria that audio connectors should be evaluated.

Two basic cable designs with very different characteristics

How does a cable affect sound quality?

How does a cable affect sound quality?

First, about the “elite” standards of Hi-Fi and Hi-End: Discussions on the topic “High fidelity of reproduction” have been going on for at least 50 years. And then and now the assessment was given not by devices, but by experts. And then and now the conclusion is the same: if you want to hear the correct reproduction, go to an acoustic concert. There is not and will not be an absolutely linear technique in the world that will record and reproduce sound without distortion as it sounded during recording. Distortions are inevitable, and speculation on this will have no end. And which technique to choose remains a matter of taste and is limited by the size of your wallet and common sense, if you have one. The most important criterion is whether you like it or not.

For example, the statement that the use of silver-plated copper in Hi-End cables improves the reproduction of overtones is, as one of our good friends said, “anti-tank nonsense.” Not only is silver not much different in conductivity from copper, but also the effect of the propagation of high-frequency currents along the surface of the conductor begins to affect the radio frequency range, and for the audio and ultrasonic ranges it is negligible. But the wires are “richly” designed and people with wallets willingly believe that this is the only cable their equipment needs.

So, about such a cable, we can safely quote V. Vysotsky: “It was as useful as milk from a goat, but there was no harm either.”

What can be said about oxygen-free copper OFC (Oxygen-Free Copper) and monocrystalline copper OCC (Ohno Continuous Casting)? Both varieties have a lot of wonderful properties. Oxygen-free copper is purified from oxygen and oxides dissolved in it by heating and pouring in a vacuum or other environment that provides protection from the ingress of oxides and other impurities. Its structure becomes homogeneous and does not create obstacles to the movement of charged particles. To produce OSS, even more complex technology is used. Both types are widely used in microelectronics, space and other high-tech industries.

But in relation to acoustics, one should remember the catchphrase of doctors: “Vitamins enrich the patient’s urine and the pharmacist’s pocket.” All reasons a la “reduces the degree of sound distortion and the level of extraneous noise”, “are not subject to internal corrosion and their conductivity does not deteriorate over time” are intended for the inexperienced ear of a buyer willing to pay.

Once again: if the conductor is made of copper, then whether it is “monocrystalline” or “oxygen-free”, or both together, does not have any significant meaning for acoustic systems. All these advantages appear below the sensitivity zone of the human ear and the noise of conductors is several orders of magnitude lower than the noise level emitted by transistors and other radio components.

For speaker cables, the main thing is that they contain copper and that it does not rust like “Chinese” brass on plumbing fittings. As for “non-susceptibility to internal corrosion,” copper feels great even in river and sea water, so inside properly made insulation it will last a hundred years.

see also

Comments 44

How did you attach the wires from the speaker to the subwoofer block from the inside?

I think I soldered it, I don’t remember... it was a long time ago.

The kg has a service life of 4 years, they said in the store

I don’t argue, there is a limit to everything. I've been tearing all my cables apart for literally a couple of weeks, the veins have darkened a little, they've oxidized a little, and that's all. The insulation is intact, there are no traces of black or green oxides. The contacts are all intact, the current-carrying capacity is at the same level. If everything is properly insulated, open untinned parts are treated, then with careful operation I think this period can be safely multiplied by two)

Hello! Where did you run the wires (route). There is also something to be done.

It’s like you don’t have to love a car, then you saw a Renault, well, then you can!

What doesn't kill Reno only makes it stronger!

I also bought a kg10 for the speaker and... it didn’t fit... before that I tried on the terminal on the speaker and looked on the internet for the diameter of the kg10 - everything matched, it turned out that different factories have different thicknesses and my kg10 is thicker and doesn’t fit in any way and even twisted it more tightly) so I’m driving for now with the old ones (aluminum), although the amplifier is overloaded, since the power supply cannot push through these underwires) I’m looking for 8 squares or so. But we have a problem with this(

Someone has a guest house, there are more copper veins, and those made according to that one are one and a half, or even two times less. But it’s better, of course, with smaller veins and in a good flexible shell, similar to acoustic ones, more convenient to use. I changed it to these.

I also bought a kg10 for the speaker and... it didn’t fit... before that I tried on the terminal on the speaker and looked on the internet for the diameter of the kg10 - everything matched, it turned out that different factories have different thicknesses and my kg10 is thicker and doesn’t fit in any way and even twisted it more tightly) so I’m driving for now with the old ones (aluminum), although the amplifier is overloaded, since the power supply cannot push through these underwires) I’m looking for 8 squares or so. But we have a problem with this(

Yes, drill out the terminal for the kg10 wire and put it in, what’s the problem?

I'm afraid I'll break the terminal. I threw 4 squares of copper. As long as it's enough

I bought a subwoofer yesterday, Pioneer, the acoustic wires from the kit fell apart in my hands, I replaced them with a power supply from 9 squares, is it normal or is the acoustic one better? It seems like both are oxygen-free copper, I don’t see much of a difference.

It’s normal, I installed these myself, about 10 squares, flexible, thin veins, copper. There is no difference, the main thing is that it is copper, use a richtani file, you will know if it turns white, then it is copper-plated aluminum, for use in the firebox. And the OFC marking, such as oxygen-free copper, should not be trusted at all, especially if it is erased with a fingernail or solvent. A budget option is PVA type wire, sold in hardware stores, the veins are only thick and do not bend well, but it is pure copper.

Make sure you don’t have to re-glue the rear glass) I have a friend who has already done this on a Mazda 3))

Your friend probably has a kilowatt of power) but mine didn’t even reach 400 watts. Yes, and my forehead was more wobbly. But all this is in the past, now the system is simpler)

How many liters is the box? I have an Alpine 1244 sub. I want a box like yours, but less than about 35 liters. Maybe there is a drawing of the dimensions?! Thank you

60 liters. The logbook has a complete report, with a drawing and diagram. There are photos and all dimensions.

Has there been a difference in the sound of the Subic after replacing the wires?

It seems to have become a little better, but in general a greater effect is noticeable with a comprehensive replacement of wires, both power and acoustic.

What is worth knowing about the speaker cable cross-section?

What is worth knowing about the speaker cable cross-section?

The losses of transmitted energy depend on the cross-section of the conductor. To find out what cross-section the wire has, you need to cut it exactly across and calculate the area of ​​the end. Accordingly, the thicker the wire, the larger the cross-section.

The USA invented their own standard, calling it “ American Wire Gauge System ” or AWG , which was intended to further offend Europeans. They also turned it upside down, that is, the larger the caliber, the smaller the diameter. The table of correspondence between gauges and areas is extensive, but as an example, here are several commonly used standard sizes for single-core conductors:

Why do you even need to calculate the cross-section of the speaker cable for laying speaker cords? The fact is that if the metal is not an ideal conductor, then it heats up from the current passing through it. This means that if you have powerful acoustics, you will have to take a fairly thick wire. There is also a direct relationship between the cross-section and the length. You should know that the longer the path to the speaker, the greater the resistance of the conductors, and therefore the loss in volume and quality. But the larger the cross-section of the conductor, the lower its resistivity, so by taking a thicker wire you are guaranteed not to lose a single precious watt from the amplifier.

Connecting the subwoofer to the receiver

Connecting couldn’t be easier, our instructions will help:

• Find the subwoofer output on the receiver (see Connecting a passive subwoofer to the receiver yourself), marked SUB OUT, or something like that
• Connect either end of the “1RCA - 1RCA” wire to it, if the subwoofer has a stereo output, then insert the other end into the left channel jack, this is usually a mono output, as in the photo below

Connection diagram of the subwoofer to the receiver

• It happens that there are two outputs for a subwoofer, connect to either one, the outputs are absolutely equivalent
• In large rooms, two subwoofers are often required, therefore, in order not to bother searching for adapters or splitters, manufacturers of powerful receivers often use dual output jacks for each device
• The “subwoofer cable” is no different in design from the so-called “interconnect”; it is a standard shielded audio cable with RCA connectors at all ends
• There are no special requirements for such a wire other than the design (shielded audio wire with RCA connectors), so you won’t hear much of a difference between a purchased one and a homemade one, even if you have a powerful subwoofer, good hearing and a good listening room
• The quality of the cable will matter when its length is quite significant (more than five meters, as in a car) - here it is much better to have a cable with good shielding, so that your subwoofer does not emit a noticeable background hum caused by interference in the network, which it “catch” poorly shielded long cable
• Which subwoofer cable is better, I think you already understand
• It is extremely rare to purchase a ready-made subwoofer cable, since the distance from the receiver to the subwoofer is different for each case, and sagging or tension in the cable is harmful to the equipment
• A wire under constant tension gradually fails, the veins in its weak point break, and eventually (rather quickly) the sound disappears, while the outer braid may remain intact, which makes it difficult to find the problem
• A sagging wire catches extraneous interference and noise, and a coiled wire generally becomes a source of eddy currents and interference (this is pure physics, the properties of a coiled conductor)
• Therefore, it is better to purchase a high-quality instrument or microphone cable from your nearest professional musical equipment store, not necessarily the most expensive one.
• There you can buy 2 RCA connectors with a metal case and gold-plated contacts
• connector - doesn't matter
• Often this cannot be determined by eye
• There is also almost no difference in quality, if you take not the most expensive ones, often everything is produced at the same enterprises
• As a result, a homemade good subwoofer cable costs less than ten bucks for 5 meters with a splitter if needed
• A decent purchased wire (with connectors) will cost you several times more, even though it is not much better
• Let me remind you once again that you need to solder with lead-free solder, lead reduces the quality of any signal
• If there are no professional audio stores in your area, what kind of cable is needed for the subwoofer in this case?
• Then, as an interconnect, a high-quality antenna wire will suit you, since it satisfies the basic requirements and has excellent shielding

Note: Connecting any electrical equipment requires you to comply with electrical safety measures; work with the engine turned off and the battery disconnected.

If you have to make an “interblock” yourself, then our training video will help you.

Which speaker cable should you choose?

Which speaker cable should you choose?

As almost everywhere, the main selection criteria are quality and durability.

As sad as it may be, if you need both, you won’t be able to save much. In addition, imitation technologies are now extremely developed and we regularly buy into “lucrative discounts”, and almost immediately we understand that it was not us who received the benefit.

Professional models of acoustic (speaker) cables of the German brand KLOTZ ais

Multicore models of professional acoustic (speaker) cables for connecting Bi-wiring and Bi-amping

What is important to pay attention to when buying an speaker cable?

What a copper core looks like. If the cable is very soft or very hard, then this is a reason for doubt. It may well be that they are offering you a copper-plated alloy. not pure copper. All alloys are obviously worse in conductivity than copper. The argument that they are better than copper because they do not oxidize or rust is an attempt to mislead. The oxidation processes of copper are very slow and if the contact was normal, then nothing will happen to it for many years. And the rest of the copper is covered with chemically neutral insulation and it will additionally prevent the destruction of the metal. By the way, this is a very important indicator of quality: the “freshly exposed” strands of a new wire should not be darker than raw copper; if this is not the case, then either the copper is of terrible quality, or the insulation is aggressive and will soon corrode the metal. We came across similar samples that literally crumbled in our hands.

– Feel and remember the insulation. Normal should not stick to your hands and leave traces of paint. It should be moderately soft, elastic, but strong and not crack when bent sharply. Double insulation is more expensive than single insulation; if this is not the case, then you need to clarify why.

– Naturally, there should be a color marking of one of the wires. Otherwise, you will be tormented by “phasing” your acoustics, and this is extremely important for surround sound systems, so that the speakers oscillate in the same direction.

– Manufacturers of high-quality cables must mark their products and put meter marks so that it is easy to count the required pieces.

– To be sure that what you are looking at is not a fake, it makes sense to search for the manufacturer online and see what their products look like and whether they are similar to what they are offering you.

Responsible sellers value their reputation and try not to deceive anyone, except perhaps tax collectors and customs officers. All you need to do is find a responsible seller.

Recommend a cable for a subwoofer

There is a trace. components house. cinema Pioneer sc-lx53, acoustics: front Klipsch RF-5, center Klipsch RC-3, 4 rear Klipsch RS-3 and two upper front speakers. The system also includes 2 Sunfire XTEQ 10 and 8″ subwoofers. The room is rectangular, 8.5 meters long to the screen, 4 meters wide, and has a 165-inch screen. on the opposite side there is a sofa that covers the entire wall. Please tell me which cable is best to connect subwoofers? There is only one sub output on the receiver, and what is the best way to arrange the subwoofers for uniform sound. I plan to change the receiver. Now the first sub is connected with an ixos wire, stands next to the front, the second is in the middle of the long wall of the room, connected with an inexpensive but long (6 meters) stereo cable from the output of the first sub.

Answers

if you change the res, then you need to take one with 2 sub outputs

for now leave it as it is

and with two outputs, does the receiver change the sound picture much when compared with one?

the sound will be more correct with 2 subwoofers

than with the initial division of the ass

Now what's wrong? For example, if you connect 4 subwoofers to a very large home cinema room, then in any case there will not be enough outputs from the receiver. Do you think that the sound on the 2 subwoofer outputs on the receiver is different?

I’m just writing about the CORRECT connection of 2 subs

you can of course mess it up as above with many unknowns

and then try to solve the problem

Yes, there is nothing murky in the first connection option with one sub output from the receiver. The subwoofer has 3 output connection options, linear with full range, linear with frequency cut, and as a slave from the first subwoofer with the transfer of all equalizer settings, levels and phase from the first subwoofer to the second. I don’t think that if there were 2 outputs from the receiver to the sub, then this would be the only correct connection, as an option, yes.

Are you more interested in which cable model to choose to connect all this, and how best to place the subwoofers in the room? It is important to purchase the correct length of cable.

Subsequently, take the Supra. They are made according to a pseudo-balanced scheme. There will be no interference in the path,

The cable must be copper, always shielded, with good RCA connectors! This cable is from the nearest radio goods store for 400 rubles for 3 meters. My subwoofer is connected at low frequency with two such cables from the pre-out of the amplifier. There is no background at all!

You will most likely need a Y cable; there are some available for sale at your local radio store. Just don’t buy a separate Y adapter for the cable, this is a direct way to catch the ground and background, respectively!

So. About the cables, it’s correct to connect the second sub through the subwoofer output. Of course, I don’t know the circuit design of this sub, but when you plug in the y-rca you will have a double resistance load on one output. This usually leads to the fact that there is not enough output for normal bass. All the same, the pre output also needs a normal signal. In a good subwoofer, an amplified signal goes to the output, so the resistance of the inputs and outputs remains the same as is normal. therefore, the output from the receiver to the sub is from the sub to the second sub. Subs location. there is such a disgrace. called indoor mode calculation. So google him. In general, everything is simple there. There are even ready-made calculators. and before you launch them, do this exercise. turn on music with decent bass. the same pink floid wall and walk around the room closer to the speakers from very close to right up to the back wall. notice how the sound changes in the bass. and then look at the fashions, clearly understanding what you are expecting.

yes, it seems like subs are not cheap, the output should be normal, today I’ll take wires of different lengths and try to move them

I re-read your question. any shift of sources from each other in a direction closer to further disrupts the phase of the final signal coming to the listener. so put it strictly on the same line. In public cinemas, each speaker has its own amplifier. There the specifications are to make the same amplitude and phase relative to the front channels for all rows of listeners. so there are a lot of them there. but each has its own delay and volume. and sometimes also algorithms for subtracting sounds coming from other speakers to remove echoes from them. Walk around VDNKh like a thread. there the music sounds throughout the “room”; you are sure to find a couple of points with a stunning anti-phase panorama. I definitely remember there is a place near the rocket. on the road where Tushka is looking with his nose. This mess shouldn't happen.

an electric phase regulator on the subwoofer (too lazy to look at which one is here), if it is smooth, it regulates the phase of the entire signal according to its own electrical rules. in air the phase is different and at different frequencies at the same distance it will be different. those. An electric one will shift the phase of all frequencies at once (in comparison with air, the discrepancy can be neglected), but it will not correct what diverges in the room. you need a receiver from Trinnov to count this.

They have smooth phase adjustment, I tried turning them, the sound certainly changes, but it’s not clear how to set it correctly, I’ll try to connect a microphone to them and compare what it sets there

Take a Y-cable - this is what subwoofer manufacturers recommend. Moreover, some suggest connecting your subwoofer in the same way, even if there is only one - the cable is connected immediately to both the left and right line inputs.

You were advised above Supra - an excellent choice: just decide on the length

Physical characteristics of an audio cable that affect sound reproduction quality

Let's consider the degree to which the quality of an audio cable is influenced by the purity of the copper core, skin effect, braided shielding, roughness, core coating and insulation.

Effect of copper purity on the audio signal

According to GOST 859-2001, copper with a purity of more than 99% is used for the manufacture of cable wires, in which the maximum proportion of impurities in the worst case does not exceed 1%, which practically does not affect its conductivity.

The oxygen present in copper has a valve effect and works like a diode, rectifying a sine wave. In oxygen-free copper of grade M0, the amount of oxygen does not exceed 0.001%. In the deoxidized M1 grade it is 0.01%, which theoretically can add nonlinear distortions to the audio signal by no more than this amount.

In practice, the introduced distortion is many times less, since the diodes are shunted with pure copper. Thus, the presence of oxygen in copper does not affect the natural sound.

For reference. Scientists V. M. Bolshov and V. I. Gukin found that the human ear does not detect nonlinear distortions of less than 3%.

Influence of the skin effect

When alternating current passes through a conductor, an alternating electromagnetic field appears around it, which creates an electric induction field that interacts nonlinearly with the electromagnetic field. As a result, the current density from the center of the wire axis shifts to its surface. This behavior of alternating current is called the skin effect.

The skin effect begins to appear at frequencies above 100 Hz in wires with a cross-section of more than 0.75 mm2. Thus, low frequencies (bass) are not affected. As the frequency increases, a smooth manifestation of the skin effect begins, and at a frequency of 20 kHz, the loss increases to 0.25 dB, which is almost impossible to notice. But even if you have perfect hearing, you can always compensate for losses in the high-frequency range using an equalizer.

On wires with a cross section of less than 0.75 mm2, there is no skin effect in the audio range. Therefore, to obtain a cable without skin effect for connecting audio speakers to an amplifier, for example, with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2, it is enough to twist two insulated wires with a cross-section of 0.75 mm2. Many audio cable manufacturers do this.

About braided cable shielding

The non-ferrous metal shielding used in expensive audio cables does not protect against low-frequency electromagnetic fields, and high-frequency fields, from which shielding can protect, under normal conditions create an EMF in the cable wires of several microvolts.

The level of influence of such a field is hundredths of a dB, which is impossible to hear even when the signal is not sent to the speakers.

Effect of roughness and coating of cable wires

According to Ohm's Law, the current strength in a closed circuit depends only on its resistance, therefore even greater roughness of the wires will reduce the cross-section of the wire by 0.1%, which will have no practical effect.

Coating wires with noble metals is justified only to reduce the influence of the skin effect at frequencies above 100 kHz. Therefore, it does not matter for an audio cable. The insulating coating does a good job of protecting copper from external influences. It may be justified to cover only the terminals at the ends of the wires.

How to choose a speaker cable

To connect the speakers you need cords like ShVPM 2×0.20 or ShVPM 2×0.5. To achieve high sound quality, you need to combine a minimum length with a maximum cross-section. Simply put, the thicker and shorter the conductor, the better the music will sound. But if, with a short conductor, you can choose a cord with a small cross-section, then a conductor length greater than 3 m can only be compensated for by a larger cross-section.

Copper cords coated with silver are suitable for clubs and concerts. Silver reduces noise interference that occurs with long conductor lengths.

Shielded Speaker Cable

Types of subwoofer cables and their technical parameters

In the modern world, every car has a radio and several speakers for listening to radio or music, but car owners are not always satisfied with the playback quality, and they tune the audio system. To improve the quality of the sound output, many install subwoofers and additional speakers, but some forget that this is additional equipment that must be connected correctly.

Car radio

Safety and better sound depend not only on the components of the audio system, but also on the wires through which the signal is transmitted. Which cable to choose for connecting a subwoofer, and what wires are required to connect an active or passive subwoofer?

Connecting an active subwoofer

Why is it better to choose copper cable?

Speaker cables are made from copper, copper with tin or silver, and also from metal with non-metallic additives (for example, carbon). The best choice is pure copper wire. Copper can be monocrystalline or oxygen-free, highly purified. The second variety is the best because it does not contain impurities that would increase the resistance.

Pure copper wire

The sound quality directly depends on how much distortion the conductor introduces. Therefore, the key characteristic of a material is its resistance. The lower the cable resistance, the better the signal. Impedance is affected not only by the material, but also by the diameter and length of the cord, but if the material has high impedance, other characteristics will not improve the sound quality.

Copper has low resistance. Even if the cable cross-section is small, the acoustics sound cleaner with a copper conductor than with a large-diameter cord made of a different material. The usual diameter of copper conductors is 2-4 square meters. mm. With a cord length of 3 m and a diameter of 2.5 sq. mm the resistance will be zero. Keep in mind that the longer and thinner the speaker wires, the greater the resistance, and this affects the sound quality.

Sources

• https://dinamikservis.ru/blog/dinamiki/provoda-dlya-dinamikov-v-avto/
• https://stroy-podskazka.ru/kolonki-dlya-kompyutera/akusticheskie-kabeli/
• https://1-tech.com.ua/blog/kakoj-kabel-stoit-pokupat-dlja-akusticheskih-kolonok
• https://YDoma.info/ehlektrotekhnika/vybor-podgotovka-montazh-provoda/electricity-vybor-akusticheskogo-kabelya.html
• https://www.AlfaZvuk.ru/articles/kak-podobrat-kabel-dlya-akusticheskih-sistem-kinoteatra-kolonok.html
• https://www.audiomania.ru/shop/cat-11.html